Atnaujinkite slapukų nuostatas

Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture [Kietas viršelis]

  • Formatas: Hardback, 394 pages, aukštis x plotis: 280x210 mm, weight: 1678 g, 6 Tables, black and white; 23 Line drawings, black and white; 359 Halftones, black and white
  • Išleidimo metai: 23-Jan-2019
  • Leidėjas: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 1138069426
  • ISBN-13: 9781138069428
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and CultureDidesnis paveikslėlis
  • Formatas: Hardback, 394 pages, aukštis x plotis: 280x210 mm, weight: 1678 g, 6 Tables, black and white; 23 Line drawings, black and white; 359 Halftones, black and white
  • Išleidimo metai: 23-Jan-2019
  • Leidėjas: Routledge
  • ISBN-10: 1138069426
  • ISBN-13: 9781138069428
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
Pastovi nuoroda: https://www.kriso.lt/db/9781138069428.html
Raktažodžiai:

Beijing Opera Costumes: The Visual Communication of Character and Culture illuminates the links between theatrical attire and social customs and aesthetics of China, covering both the theory and practice of stage dress. Distinguishing attributes include an introduction to the performance style, the delineation of the costume conventions, an analysis of the costumes through their historical precedents and theatrical modifications, and the use of garment shape, color, and embroidery for symbolic effect. Practical information covers dressing the performers and a costume plot, the design and creation of the make-up and hairstyles, and pattern drafts of the major garments. Photographs from live performances, as well as details of embroidery, and close-up photographs of the headdresses thoroughly portray the stunning beauty of this incomparable performance style. Presenting the brilliant colors of the elaborately embroidered silk costumes together with the intricate makeup and glittering headdresses, this volume embodies the elegance of the Beijing opera.

Recenzijos

"This book is a very detailed and thorough examination of costuming (including makeup) in traditional Beijing opera as practices today. This book with its ample illustrations and clear structure, is an excellent guide to the symbolic system used to differentiate the characters on the Beijing opera stage and it could also be said to represent a guide to the visual world of Beijing opera in general. It is the only book of its kind in English and it is very hard to conceive of it being surpassed any time soon."

Professor David Rolston

University of Michigan

"Alexandra Bonds remarkable book is possibly the most extensive study of Jingju costume in any language, and by far the most complete coverage of the subject in English. It explores an impressive range of subjects in relationship to costuming, from role types, color and design symbolism, and makeup and beards, to the training of dressers."

Professor Elizabeth Wichmann-Walczak

University of Hawaii at Mnoa

"Beijing Opera Costumes is by far the best resource I have encountered in my time as a theatre student. Professor Bonds has created one of the most insightful and thorough compellations of information on Jingju costumes, and the accessibility of her writing for readers and learners at any level is what makes the text a stand-out contribution to the field."

Grace Heller

Theatre Student

Western Washington University

Acknowledgements xiii
Foreword xv
Preface xix
Abbreviations xx
Dynasties xxii
List of Figures
xxiii
List of Tables
xxxv
List of Pattern Drafts
xxxvi
Introduction xxxvii
Chapter 1 The World of Traditional Jingju
1(22)
Role Types
2(9)
Plays
11(2)
Visual Components
13(5)
Costumes
18(2)
Aesthetic Principles
20(1)
Beauty
21(2)
Chapter 2 The World of Traditional Jingju Costumes
23(20)
Costumes and Roles
23(3)
Identity through Costumes
26(5)
Absence of Time Period
31(1)
Absence of Season
32(1)
Absence of Region
32(1)
Dramatic Circumstances
32(3)
Selection Process
35(1)
Costumes and Movement
35(6)
Costume Sources
41(2)
Chapter 3 The Form and Historical Roots of Costumes
43(26)
Historical Background
43(1)
Cloth-Based Sources of Clothing
44(1)
Han Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes
45(5)
Hide-Based Sources of Clothing
50(1)
Manchu Garments and Traditional Jingju Costumes
50(4)
Theatrically Based Clothing
54(5)
Water Sleeves (Shuixiu)
59(2)
Form and Conventions of Usage
61(1)
Patterning and Cut of Costumes
61(2)
Construction
63(3)
Fabrics
66(3)
Chapter 4 The Symbolism and Application of Color
69(20)
History of Color Symbolism
69(1)
Upper and Lower Colors
70(1)
Meanings of the Upper Five Colors
71(3)
Meanings of the Lower Five Colors
74(2)
Color Combinations by Role Type
76(3)
Aesthetics of Color Composition
79(5)
Fabric and Embroidery Floss Colors
84(2)
Lining Colors
86(3)
Chapter 5 The Aesthetics and Meanings of the Embroidered Imagery
89(24)
Embroidery in Chinese History
89(2)
Embroidery Techniques
91(5)
Composition
96(5)
Imagery
101(12)
Chapter 6 The Costume Compendium
113(76)
The Major Costumes
114(23)
Mang (Court Robe)
114(3)
Numang (Female Court Robe)
117(2)
Qimang (Manchu Court Robe)
119(1)
Gailiang mang (Reformed Court Robe)
120(1)
Pi (Formal Robe)
121(1)
Nupi (Female Formal Robe)
122(1)
Kao (Armor)
123(3)
Nukao (Female Armor)
126(1)
Gailiang kao (Reformed Armor)
127(1)
Gailiang nukao (Female Reformed Armor)
128(1)
Xuezi (Informal Robe)
129(4)
Nuxuezi (Female Informal Robe)
133(2)
Fugui yi (Garment of Wealth and Nobility)
135(2)
The Long Costumes
137(10)
Kai chang (Open Robe)
137(1)
Guanyi (Official Robe)
138(1)
Gailiang guanyi (Reformed Official Robe)
139(1)
Eunuch Robe (Taijian yi)
140(1)
Xueshi yi (Scholar's Robe)
141(1)
Jianyi (Archer's Robe)
142(2)
Longtao yi (Attendant Robe)
144(1)
Dakai (Big Armor)
145(1)
Gongzhuang (Palace Garment)
146(1)
The Short Costumes
147(12)
Magua (Riding Jacket)
147(1)
Baoyi (Lit. "Leopard" or "Embracing" Clothes)
148(2)
Kuaiyi (Lit. "Fast" Clothes) and Bingyi (Soldier's Clothes)
150(2)
Chayi (Lit. "Tea" Clothes)
152(1)
Big-sleeved Robe (Daxiu)
153(1)
Prisoner's Clothes (Zuiyi)
154(1)
Executioner's Clothes (Guizishou yi)
155(1)
Jacket and Skirt {Aoquri) and Jacket and Trousers (Aoku)
156(1)
Zhan'ao zhanqun (War Jacket, Skirt, and Trousers)
157(1)
Caipo ao (Colorful Jacket for Old Women)
158(1)
Duantiao (Lit. "Short and Convenient for Playing" Robe) and An'anyi (Children's Clothing)
158(1)
The Specific Costumes
159(17)
Religious Costumes
159(1)
Bagua yi (Eight Trigrams Robe)
159(2)
Fayi (Priest's Chasuble)
161(1)
Sengyi (Buddhist Robe)
161(1)
Xiao sengyi (Young Monk's Robe)
162(1)
Head Monk Cloak (Jiasha)
163(1)
Seng kanjian or wuseng yi (Military Monk Vest)
163(1)
Sanse dao beixin (Three-Color Daoist Vest)
164(1)
Daoist Nun Vest (Daogu kanjian)
165(1)
Mythological Creatures and Beings
165(2)
Ethnic Clothing
167(1)
Qipao (Manchu Gown)
167(1)
Bufu (Coat with a Badge)
168(1)
Special Characters
169(1)
Lady Yu
169(1)
Guan Yu
170(1)
Zhong Kui
171(1)
Monkey Costumes
172(1)
Zhiduyi (Combat Clothes for the Monkey King)
172(1)
Monkey Clothes (Houyi)
173(1)
Houjia (Monkey Armor)
174(1)
Little Monkey Clothes (Xiao houyi)
174(1)
Mei Lanfang Designs
174(1)
Guzhuang ("Ancient-Style" Dress)
174(1)
Cloud-Terrace Costume (Yuntai zhuang)
175(1)
Accessory Pieces
176(13)
Trousers (Kuzi) and Colored Trousers (Caiku)
176(1)
Skirts (Qunzi)
177(1)
Vests (Kanjian): Male Roles
178(1)
Vests (Kanjian): Female Roles
179(1)
Large Apron (Da fandan) and Small Apron (Xiao fandan)
180(1)
Capes (Doupeng)
181(1)
Belts
182(1)
Footwear
183(2)
Inner Garments
185(1)
Water Sleeves (Shuixiu)
186(3)
Chapter 7 Makeup, Hair, and Headdresses
189(46)
Women's Makeup
190(2)
Men's Makeup
192(1)
Lianpu (Lit. "Face Chart") Makeup
192(12)
Hairdressing and Accessories
204(2)
Women's Hairstyles
206(5)
Men's Hair
211(1)
Beards
212(1)
Headdresses
213(22)
Ceremonial Headdresses
214(4)
Helmets
218(2)
Hats
220(5)
Fabric Caps
225(6)
Supplementary Styles
231(1)
Accessories
231(4)
Chapter 8 Dressing Techniques and Costume Plots
235(42)
Training
235(1)
Patterns of Selection
236(4)
Layering Patterns
240(1)
Deviations from Dressing Patterns
240(2)
Costume Plots
242(2)
A Costume Plot and Two Performances
244(5)
Dressing Techniques
249(2)
Trunks and Storage
251(26)
Appendix I Costume Pattern Drafts 277(48)
Appendix II Dictionary of Select Jingju Characters 325(4)
Glossary 329(12)
List of Performances 341(4)
Index 345
Alexandra B. Bonds is Professor Emerita of Costume Design at the University of Oregon. Her passion for Beijing Opera costumes began when she received a Fulbright to teach at the National Institute for the Arts in Taiwan in 1990. As an award-winning designer of costumes, she became the first foreigner to study costumes at the Academy for Traditional Chinese Opera in Beijing, China. Her research in this area has been recognized for excellence in writing for the performing arts by the United States Institute for Theatre Technology