Foreword |
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xi | |
Dedications |
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xiii | |
Acknowledgements |
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xv | |
Contributors |
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xvii | |
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The nature and properties of leather |
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1 | (3) |
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3 | (1) |
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Collagen: the leathermaking protein |
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4 | (7) |
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4 | (2) |
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Bonding within the molecule |
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6 | (1) |
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Bonding between molecules |
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6 | (2) |
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6 | (1) |
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Covalent intermolecular bonding |
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7 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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9 | (2) |
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10 | (1) |
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The fibre structure of leather |
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11 | (11) |
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The structure of mammalian skins |
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12 | (1) |
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Variation of structure between animal types |
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12 | (5) |
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12 | (2) |
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14 | (1) |
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14 | (1) |
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14 | (1) |
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15 | (1) |
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15 | (2) |
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17 | (1) |
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17 | (1) |
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Variation in structure with location in the skin |
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17 | (2) |
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Directional run of the fibres |
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19 | (1) |
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The influence of fibre structure on leather properties, structure and tear strength |
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19 | (1) |
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Structure and leather handle |
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20 | (1) |
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20 | (2) |
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21 | (1) |
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The chemistry of tanning materials |
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22 | (14) |
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22 | (1) |
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23 | (4) |
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27 | (3) |
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27 | (2) |
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29 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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30 | (1) |
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30 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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32 | (2) |
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32 | (1) |
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Combination or retanning syntans |
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33 | (1) |
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33 | (1) |
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34 | (2) |
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34 | (2) |
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The mechanisms of deterioration in leather |
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36 | (22) |
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36 | (1) |
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37 | (6) |
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37 | (1) |
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38 | (1) |
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38 | (2) |
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40 | (1) |
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41 | (1) |
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41 | (2) |
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43 | (4) |
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Bonds in collagen: sites of deterioration mechanisms |
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43 | (1) |
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43 | (1) |
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44 | (3) |
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47 | (3) |
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47 | (1) |
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Antioxidant ability of tannins |
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47 | (1) |
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Analysis of tannins in aged leather -- deterioration mechanisms |
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47 | (3) |
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Other chemicals present due to fabrication and use |
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50 | (2) |
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50 | (1) |
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51 | (1) |
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Sulphur compounds and their acids |
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51 | (1) |
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Acids in leather due to fabrication or use |
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52 | (1) |
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52 | (1) |
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Denaturation and shrinkage temperatures as a method of assessment for all tannages |
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52 | (1) |
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53 | (5) |
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54 | (1) |
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54 | (4) |
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Testing leathers and related materials |
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58 | (8) |
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58 | (1) |
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Determination of raw material |
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58 | (1) |
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Determination of tannage type |
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58 | (1) |
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58 | (1) |
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59 | (1) |
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59 | (1) |
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Determination of degree of deterioration |
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59 | (5) |
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59 | (1) |
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60 | (4) |
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64 | (2) |
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64 | (2) |
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The manufacture of leather |
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66 | (16) |
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Tanning in prehistoric and classical times |
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66 | (2) |
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Tanning in the medieval and post-medieval periods |
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68 | (5) |
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Tanning in nineteenth century |
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73 | (4) |
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77 | (5) |
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77 | (3) |
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80 | (1) |
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81 | (1) |
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81 | (1) |
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The social position of leatherworkers |
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82 | (6) |
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87 | (1) |
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88 | (6) |
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Production and art historical aspects |
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90 | (1) |
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Conservation and restoration |
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91 | (3) |
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94 | (9) |
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The cuir bouilli technique |
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94 | (1) |
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Leather moulding techniques |
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94 | (1) |
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The origins of the cuir bouilli technique |
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94 | (3) |
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Changes undergone by the leather in the cuir bouilli process |
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97 | (1) |
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Conservation of cuir bouilli |
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97 | (1) |
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97 | (1) |
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Damage caused by old treatments |
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98 | (1) |
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Original treatments of cuir bouilli leather |
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98 | (1) |
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Case study of the conservation of cuir bouilli leather |
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98 | (5) |
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Analysis and use of non-invasive xeroradiographic imaging |
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99 | (1) |
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Removal of inappropriate surface coatings |
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99 | (2) |
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101 | (1) |
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101 | (2) |
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The tools and techniques of leatherworking: correct tools + skills = quality |
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103 | (10) |
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103 | (5) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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104 | (1) |
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The bone folder or crease |
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104 | (1) |
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104 | (1) |
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104 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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106 | (1) |
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106 | (1) |
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107 | (1) |
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107 | (1) |
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108 | (1) |
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108 | (1) |
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108 | (1) |
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109 | (4) |
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109 | (1) |
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109 | (1) |
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Sewing -- stitch formation |
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109 | (1) |
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110 | (1) |
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110 | (1) |
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Decorative machine stitching |
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110 | (1) |
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111 | (1) |
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112 | (1) |
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General principles of care, storage and display |
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113 | (8) |
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113 | (1) |
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113 | (1) |
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114 | (1) |
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114 | (1) |
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114 | (1) |
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115 | (1) |
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115 | (2) |
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115 | (1) |
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116 | (1) |
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116 | (1) |
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117 | (1) |
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117 | (1) |
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117 | (1) |
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117 | (1) |
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117 | (1) |
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118 | (1) |
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Screens, wall hangings and sedan chairs |
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119 | (1) |
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120 | (1) |
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120 | (1) |
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120 | (1) |
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Materials and techniques: past and present |
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121 | (9) |
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Past conservation treatments |
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121 | (3) |
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121 | (1) |
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121 | (1) |
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122 | (1) |
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123 | (1) |
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2003 Canadian Conservation Institute (CCI) survey |
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124 | (1) |
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Notes on treatments in use in 2004 -- additional information |
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124 | (2) |
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124 | (1) |
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124 | (1) |
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Wet cleaning and solvent cleaning |
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|
125 | (1) |
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Proprietary leather cleaners |
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125 | (1) |
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125 | (1) |
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126 | (1) |
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126 | (1) |
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Surface infilling materials and replacement techniques |
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127 | (1) |
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Moulding and casting materials and techniques |
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128 | (1) |
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128 | (1) |
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128 | (2) |
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129 | (1) |
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130 | (11) |
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130 | (1) |
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131 | (1) |
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131 | (1) |
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131 | (1) |
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132 | (1) |
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132 | (3) |
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132 | (2) |
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134 | (1) |
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135 | (2) |
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135 | (1) |
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136 | (1) |
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137 | (3) |
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137 | (1) |
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137 | (1) |
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137 | (1) |
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137 | (3) |
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140 | (1) |
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140 | (1) |
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Furs and furriery: history, techniques and conservation |
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141 | (29) |
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141 | (7) |
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141 | (1) |
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142 | (3) |
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145 | (1) |
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Some fashionable furs and dates |
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146 | (2) |
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Structure, morphology, dressing and making |
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148 | (10) |
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Definitions and terminology |
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148 | (1) |
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Brief history of fur-skin processing and dyeing |
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148 | (1) |
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149 | (1) |
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149 | (1) |
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150 | (1) |
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151 | (2) |
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153 | (1) |
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154 | (1) |
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154 | (1) |
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Making up into garments or accessories |
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154 | (3) |
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157 | (1) |
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158 | (12) |
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158 | (1) |
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158 | (1) |
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159 | (1) |
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159 | (2) |
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Two case histories illustrating methods |
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161 | (4) |
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Freezing tests of adhesives |
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165 | (1) |
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166 | (1) |
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167 | (1) |
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168 | (2) |
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The tanning, dressing and conservation of exotic, aquatic and feathered skins |
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170 | (14) |
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170 | (3) |
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170 | (1) |
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Origins and history of exotic leathers |
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170 | (1) |
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170 | (1) |
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171 | (1) |
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171 | (1) |
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172 | (1) |
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172 | (1) |
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173 | (5) |
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174 | (1) |
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Structure and identification |
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174 | (1) |
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Fish skin in ethnographic objects |
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175 | (3) |
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178 | (1) |
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Feathered skins and fashionable dress |
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178 | (6) |
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178 | (3) |
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Conservation problems with bird skins |
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181 | (1) |
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182 | (1) |
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182 | (2) |
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Ethnographic leather and skin products |
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184 | (8) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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186 | (6) |
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Pre-treatment examination |
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186 | (1) |
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Poisons -- health and safety issues |
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186 | (1) |
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187 | (1) |
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187 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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Cosmetic repairs and infills |
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190 | (1) |
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190 | (1) |
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190 | (1) |
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190 | (1) |
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191 | (1) |
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Collagen products: glues, gelatine, gut membrane and sausage casings |
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192 | (6) |
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Animal glues and fish glues |
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192 | (1) |
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Skin glues and hide glues |
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192 | (1) |
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Parchment glue and parchment size |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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194 | (1) |
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194 | (1) |
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195 | (3) |
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197 | (1) |
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The manufacture of parchment |
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198 | (2) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (2) |
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199 | (1) |
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The conservation of parchment |
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|
200 | (25) |
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200 | (1) |
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Parchment production and use |
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200 | (3) |
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Chemical, physical and deterioration characteristics |
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203 | (6) |
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209 | (1) |
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209 | (11) |
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210 | (1) |
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210 | (1) |
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Humidification and softening |
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211 | (4) |
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Consolidation of weak parchment |
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215 | (1) |
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Consolidation of inks and pigments |
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216 | (1) |
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217 | (3) |
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220 | (5) |
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220 | (1) |
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220 | (1) |
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221 | (4) |
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Conservation of leather bookbindings: a mosaic of contemporary techniques |
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225 | (19) |
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225 | (1) |
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Binding solutions to old problems |
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225 | (5) |
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225 | (1) |
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226 | (1) |
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227 | (1) |
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227 | (1) |
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227 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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229 | (1) |
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229 | (1) |
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Making the needle drill bit |
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229 | (1) |
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Leather Conservation -- bookbinding leather consolidants |
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230 | (2) |
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230 | (1) |
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Environment Leather Project |
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230 | (1) |
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230 | (2) |
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Solvent-set book repair tissue |
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232 | (2) |
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Preparation of the repair tissue |
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233 | (1) |
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233 | (1) |
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233 | (1) |
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Reversing solvent-set tissue repairs |
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233 | (1) |
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233 | (1) |
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Split joints on leather bindings |
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234 | (1) |
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A variation on the Japanese paper hinge -- adding a cloth inner hinge |
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235 | (1) |
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Split-hinge board reattachment |
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235 | (1) |
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Board slotting -- a machine -- supported book conservation method |
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236 | (5) |
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236 | (1) |
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237 | (1) |
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Treatment of the text block |
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237 | (1) |
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|
237 | (1) |
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Reattachment of text block and boards |
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237 | (1) |
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The board slotting machine |
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238 | (1) |
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|
238 | (1) |
|
Dyeing with reactive dyes |
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239 | (2) |
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241 | (1) |
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|
241 | (1) |
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A variation on the board slotting machine |
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|
241 | (3) |
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|
242 | (2) |
|
The conservation of archaeological leather |
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|
244 | (20) |
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244 | (1) |
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The archaeological context |
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|
244 | (1) |
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Leather technology and material culture |
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|
244 | (1) |
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|
245 | (6) |
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|
245 | (1) |
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Preserving wet leather before treatment |
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246 | (1) |
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247 | (1) |
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Present-day conservation treatments |
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248 | (3) |
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251 | (6) |
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|
251 | (2) |
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253 | (1) |
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254 | (2) |
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256 | (1) |
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|
257 | (3) |
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|
257 | (2) |
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259 | (1) |
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259 | (1) |
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|
259 | (1) |
|
Long-term storage of archaeological leather |
|
|
260 | (1) |
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|
260 | (1) |
|
Condition assessments of treated leather |
|
|
260 | (1) |
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Old collections/retreatments |
|
|
260 | (1) |
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Purpose of treatment: a call for clarity |
|
|
260 | (1) |
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261 | (3) |
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|
261 | (3) |
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Case histories of treatments |
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|
264 | (71) |
|
The Gold State Coach. 1762 |
|
|
265 | (3) |
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|
265 | (1) |
|
The problems and the options |
|
|
265 | (1) |
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|
265 | (3) |
|
Dog Whip -- believed to be eighteenth century |
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268 | (3) |
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268 | (1) |
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268 | (3) |
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271 | (3) |
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271 | (1) |
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|
271 | (3) |
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|
274 | (2) |
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|
274 | (1) |
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|
274 | (2) |
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|
276 | (3) |
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|
276 | (2) |
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|
278 | (1) |
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|
279 | (6) |
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|
279 | (1) |
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|
279 | (4) |
|
|
283 | (1) |
|
Gap filling and finishing |
|
|
284 | (1) |
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|
285 | (2) |
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|
285 | (1) |
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|
285 | (2) |
|
|
287 | (6) |
|
|
287 | (1) |
|
The set of eight chairs for reupholstering |
|
|
287 | (1) |
|
The set of eight chairs repaired without removing the covers |
|
|
287 | (2) |
|
The four chairs where the covers were removed and conserved |
|
|
289 | (1) |
|
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290 | (3) |
|
Alum Tawed Gloves, having belonged to Oliver Cromwell |
|
|
293 | (3) |
|
|
293 | (1) |
|
|
293 | (1) |
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|
293 | (1) |
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|
294 | (2) |
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|
296 | (1) |
|
|
296 | (1) |
|
|
296 | (1) |
|
Mounting of a Collection of Flying Helmets |
|
|
297 | (5) |
|
|
297 | (1) |
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|
297 | (5) |
|
Leather Components from Panhard et Levassor Automobile. 1899 |
|
|
302 | (5) |
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|
302 | (1) |
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|
303 | (1) |
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|
304 | (2) |
|
|
306 | (1) |
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|
307 | (6) |
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|
307 | (1) |
|
|
307 | (6) |
|
|
313 | (2) |
|
|
313 | (1) |
|
|
313 | (2) |
|
Gilt Leather Wall Hangings, Levens Hall |
|
|
315 | (10) |
|
|
315 | (1) |
|
|
316 | (9) |
|
Phillip Webb Settle. 1860--65 |
|
|
325 | (4) |
|
|
325 | (1) |
|
|
325 | (4) |
|
Gilt Leather Wall Hangings at Groote Schuur, Cape Town |
|
|
329 | (6) |
|
|
329 | (1) |
|
|
329 | (2) |
|
|
331 | (2) |
|
|
333 | (2) |
Index |
|
335 | |