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Fashion Criticism: An Anthology [Kietas viršelis]

4.06/5 (16 ratings by Goodreads)
Edited by (Parsons School of Design, The New School, USA)
  • Formatas: Hardback, 240 pages, aukštis x plotis x storis: 258x210x20 mm, weight: 720 g
  • Išleidimo metai: 25-Feb-2021
  • Leidėjas: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
  • ISBN-10: 1350058815
  • ISBN-13: 9781350058811
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
  • Formatas: Hardback, 240 pages, aukštis x plotis x storis: 258x210x20 mm, weight: 720 g
  • Išleidimo metai: 25-Feb-2021
  • Leidėjas: Bloomsbury Visual Arts
  • ISBN-10: 1350058815
  • ISBN-13: 9781350058811
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
"This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture. Exploring the history of fashion criticism, this essential work takes us from the so-called 'women's section' of 19th century newspapers to the work of Bill Cunningham in The New York Times, and from early Vogue features to the multi-media platform work of SHOWstudio. Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual, digital world. Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorial's in Women's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism"--

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture.

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism.

Exploring the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this essential work takes readers from the writing published in avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan-the first fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize-and of Judith Thurman, a National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from the so-called “women's pages” to the contemporary style sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton Als (New Yorker).

Examining the gender dynamics of the field and its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race.

Bringing together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and writings, from Oscar Wilde's editorials in The Woman's World to the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today's proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.

Recenzijos

Seven billion humans on the planet clothe or adorn themselves every day. Yet the subject of dress its language; its influence on the way we express our identities, desires, allegiances, aspirations and (in many cases, our servitude) has rarely been considered worthy of serious inquiry. This essential anthology of essays on fashion corrects that oversight ... and it does so with exceptional verve and intelligence. * Judith Thurman, The New Yorker * From Oscar Wildes musing on corsets to Connie Wangs discussion of Wokeness, this dazzling compendium of critical fashion writingwith a sweep of over one hundred yearsis as fun to read as it is intellectually provocative. * Lynn Yaeger, Vogue, US * [ Fashion Criticism: An Anthology] represents a step forward to considering fashion criticism a respected discipline alongside cultural criticism. Moreover, it can be a very useful resource for those who wish to deepen their knowledge on the subject, and it might even help them develop their own critical skills for fashion writing. Eventually, this anthology demonstrates how politics, gender, race, and other socio cultural issues are extremely interconnected with the matters of dress. Fashion criticism can be another way of examining those contexts and enrich the conversation with new, stimulating perspectives. * The Journal of Dress History * Reprints of lesser-known essays (Campbells What Happened to the Afro?), plus essays that use a variety of approaches, from glamorous description (Longs Feminine Fashions), to social theory (Sontags Looking with Avedon), make this a solid primer on cultural criticism and fashion journalism. * Library Journal * A welcome anthology of fashion criticism establishing that writing about fashion can be as influential as designing it. Ranging across late nineteenth century gazettes, twentieth century newspapers and twenty-first century posts, its a key reference work for reading about how fashion measures up. * Alistair ONeill, Central Saint Martins, London, UK *

Daugiau informacijos

This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, claiming a place for writing on fashion alongside other more well-established areas of criticism on popular culture.
Acknowledgments viii
Introduction 1(12)
PART I Late Nineteenth Century-1960s: Introduction to PART I
13(48)
1 Mr. Oscar Wilde on Woman's Dress
17(2)
Oscar Wilde
2 Literary and Other Notes (excerpt)
19(4)
Oscar Wilde
3 Philosophic Fashions: Who Fell Asleep on the King's Highway?
23(4)
Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
4 Philosophic Fashions: Trouser-Talk (excerpt)
27(4)
Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
5 Philosophic Fashions: The Importance of Being Dressed
31(4)
Dame Rogue [ Louise Norton]
6 Feminine Fashions
35(2)
Lois Long
7 Feminine Fashions
37(2)
Lois Long
8 Copying a Fancy Name
39(6)
Elizabeth Hawes
9 News News News
45(6)
Elizabeth Hawes
10 Fashions from Paris: A Suit Story at Balenciaga
51(2)
Eugenia Sheppard
11 A Mini for Men?
53(2)
Eugenia Sheppard
12 A Campaign Issue--Clothes?
55(2)
Eleni Epstein
13 Candidates in a Tie on Fashion's Slate
57(4)
Eleni Epstein
PART II 1970s-1990s: Introduction to PART II
61(94)
14 The Wound in the Face
65(4)
Angela Carter
15 Feminine Fashions: The Fall Collections II
69(8)
Kennedy Eraser
16 Looking with Avedon
77(4)
Susan Sontag
17 What Happened to the Afro?
81(6)
Bebe Moore Campbell
18 Ralph Lauren's Achievement
87(8)
Holly Brubach
19 In Fashion: Modernism Outmoded
95(8)
Holly Brubach
20 Haute Coiffure de Gel
103(4)
Elizabeth Wilson
21 Hippie Heaven
107(6)
Eve Babitz
22 Calvinism Unclothed
113(6)
Valerie Steele
23 Coming Apart
119(6)
Amy Spindler
24 The Once and Future Suit
125(4)
Anne Hollander
25 Sexualities
129(4)
Anne Hollander
26 The Eastern Bloc
133(4)
Lynn Yaeger
27 Avant Guardians
137(2)
Lynn Yaeger
28 The Only One
139(8)
Hilton Als
29 Buying the Fantasy
147(4)
Hilton Als
30 Fashion's Military Fascination: Unsettling, Romantic Esthetic
151(4)
Suzy Menkes
PART III Twenty-first Century: Introduction to PART IE
155(67)
31 Future, Take Note: Raf Simons Was Here
159(4)
Cathy Horyn
32 Hussein Chalayan: Nostalgia for the Future
163(6)
Caroline Evans
33 The Misfit
169(10)
Judith Thurman
34 Dressed to Thrill: Alexander McQueen at the Met
179(4)
Judith Thurman
35 Why I Hate Abercrombie & Fitch (excerpt)
183(10)
Dwight A. McBride
36 The Mystery Man: Margiela, Be Mine
193(4)
Sarah Mower
37 All Hail the Leader of the Fashionable World
197(4)
Robin Givhan
38 The Revolution Will Be Branded Vetements
201(4)
Anja Aronowsky Cronberg
39 Will I Get a Ticket? A Conversation about Life after Vogue with Lucinda Chambers
205(4)
Anja Aronowsky Cronberg
40 Trump vs. the Disappearing Tie
209(4)
Vanessa Friedman
41 Suket Dhir, Men's Wear Designer, from Delhi to the World
213(4)
Guy Trebay
42 Melania Trump and the Chilling Artifice of Fashion
217(2)
Rhonda Garelick
43 Is Wokeness in Fashion Just Another Illusion?
219(3)
Connie Wang
Sources and Acknowledgments 222(3)
Index 225
Francesca Granata is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Parsons School of Design. She is the author of Experimental Fashion: Performance Art, Carnival and the Grotesque Body, and editor of the non-profit journal Fashion Projects.