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El. knyga: Garment Manufacturing Technology

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Edited by (Associate Professor, School of Communication and Design, RMIT University, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam), Edited by (Director, Centre for Materials Innovation and Future Fashion, School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia)
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Garment Manufacturing Technology provides an insiders' look at this multifaceted process, systematically going from design and production to finishing and quality control. As technological improvements are transforming all aspects of garment manufacturing allowing manufacturers to meet the growing demand for greater productivity and flexibility, the text discusses necessary information on product development, production planning, and material selection. Subsequent chapters covers garment design, including computer-aided design (CAD), advances in spreading, cutting and sewing, and new technologies, including alternative joining techniques and seamless garment construction. Garment finishing, quality control, and care-labelling are also presented and explored.

  • Provides an insiders look at garment manufacturing from design and production to finishing and quality control
  • Discusses necessary information on product development, production planning, and material selection
  • Includes discussions of computer-aided design (CAD), advances in spreading, cutting and sewing, and new technologies, including alternative joining techniques and seamless garment construction
  • Explores garment finishing, quality control, and care labelling

Recenzijos

"...provides a systematic overview of the multi-faceted process of garment manufacture, with a particular emphasis on the effective use of technology." --Asian Textile Journal

Daugiau informacijos

An insiders look at garment manufacturing from design and production to finishing and quality control
List of contributors
xi
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xiii
1 Introduction: the apparel industry
1(18)
R. Nayak
R. Padhye
1.1 Introduction
1(3)
1.2 Global scenario of apparel manufacturing
4(6)
1.3 Challenges in apparel production
10(2)
1.4 Role of various organisations
12(1)
1.5 Future trends
13(2)
1.6 Conclusions
15(4)
References
15(4)
Part One Product development, production planning and selection of materials
19(166)
2 Product development in the apparel industry
21(38)
M. Senanayake
2.1 Introduction
21(1)
2.2 Product-development models and product-development process
22(7)
2.3 Variations in apparel product development: demand-led product development
29(3)
2.4 Apparel product-development technologies
32(1)
2.5 Apparel product standards, specifications, quality assurance and product technical package
33(8)
2.6 Apparel product life-cycle management (PLM) and supply-chain relationships
41(2)
2.7 Measures for apparel product development
43(1)
2.8 Future trends in apparel product development
44(5)
2.9 Case studies: PD tools and technologies
49(6)
2.10 Conclusions
55(1)
2.11 Sources of further information and advice
55(4)
References
56(3)
3 Role of fabric properties in the clothing-manufacturing process
59(22)
B.K. Behera
3.1 Introduction
59(1)
3.2 Fabric properties and performance
59(2)
3.3 Garment make-up process and fabric properties
61(2)
3.4 Low-stress mechanical properties and make-up process
63(4)
3.5 Control system
67(2)
3.6 Fabric tailorability, buckling and formability
69(2)
3.7 Sewability
71(8)
3.8 Conclusions
79(2)
References
80(1)
4 Production planning in the apparel industry
81(28)
S. Das
A. Patnaik
4.1 Introduction
81(1)
4.2 Production planning
81(2)
4.3 Production systems
83(5)
4.4 Production planning and control in the apparel industry
88(6)
4.5 Supply chain management in the apparel industry
94(3)
4.6 Inventory management
97(2)
4.7 Manufacturing performance improvement through lean production
99(4)
4.8 Waste management
103(1)
4.9 Human resource management
104(1)
4.10 New tools developed in production planning
105(4)
Acknowledgments
105(1)
References
105(4)
5 Fabric sourcing and selection
109(20)
A. Vijayan
A. Jadhav
5.1 Introduction
109(1)
5.2 Fabric sourcing
110(5)
5.3 Fabric inspection
115(6)
5.4 Future trends
121(6)
5.5 Conclusions
127(2)
References
127(2)
6 Selecting garment accessories, trims, and closures
129(56)
K.N. Chatterjee
Y. Jhanji
T. Grover
N. Bansal
S. Bhattacharyya
6.1 Part 1: introduction to garment accessories
129(1)
6.2 Part 2: selecting garment accessories
129(7)
6.3 Part 3: selecting supporting materials
136(2)
6.4 Part 4: selecting closures
138(7)
6.5 Part 5: accessories for children's wear
145(3)
6.6 Part 6: evaluation of quality of trims and accessories
148(2)
6.7 Part 7: fashion accessories
150(33)
6.8 Conclusions
183(2)
Acknowledgments
183(1)
Bibliography
183(2)
Part Two Garment design and production
185(200)
7 Garment sizing and fit
187(18)
R. Pandarum
W. Yu
7.1 Introduction
187(1)
7.2 Geometry of the human form
188(1)
7.3 The human figure divided into body proportions
189(4)
7.4 Garment size charts
193(1)
7.5 Development of garment size charts
194(3)
7.6 Sizing and fit systems
197(3)
7.7 Three-dimensional (3D) body scanning - current and potential future applications in clothing manufacture and retailing
200(1)
7.8 Conclusions
201(1)
7.9 Sources of further information
201(4)
Acknowledgements
202(1)
References
202(3)
8 Pattern construction
205(16)
K. Kennedy
8.1 Introduction
205(1)
8.2 Pattern construction modes
206(2)
8.3 Body, material and design
208(5)
8.4 Pattern construction tools
213(5)
8.5 Conclusions
218(1)
8.6 2D and 3D CAD Web sites
219(2)
Acknowledgements
219(1)
References
219(2)
9 Fabric spreading and cutting
221(26)
I. Vilumsone-Nemes
9.1 Introduction
221(1)
9.2 Cut process planning
221(2)
9.3 Spreading of textile materials
223(7)
9.4 Cutting of textile materials
230(10)
9.5 Fusing of cut textile components
240(2)
9.6 Final work operations of the cutting process
242(2)
9.7 Future trends
244(1)
9.8 Conclusions
244(1)
9.9 Sources of further information
245(2)
10 Sewing, stitches and seams
247(28)
G. Colovic
10.1 Introduction
247(1)
10.2 Stitch classes
248(10)
10.3 Seam types
258(11)
10.4 Seam-neatening
269(1)
10.5 Future trends
270(1)
10.6 Conclusions
271(1)
10.7 Sources of further information and advice
272(3)
References
273(2)
11 Sewing equipment and work aids
275(42)
P. Jana
11.1 Introduction
275(1)
11.2 Different bed types in industrial sewing machines
275(5)
11.3 Different feed types in industrial sewing machines
280(9)
11.4 Cyclic sewing machines
289(2)
11.5 Computerised sewing machines
291(4)
11.6 Work aids
295(7)
11.7 Sewing automats
302(4)
11.8 Sewing needles
306(4)
11.9 Sewing threads
310(2)
11.10 Future trends and conclusions
312(1)
11.11 Sources of further information and advice
313(4)
References
314(3)
12 Sewing-room problems and solutions
317(20)
M. Carvalho
H. Carvalho
L.F. Silva
F. Ferreira
12.1 Introduction
317(1)
12.2 Seam pucker and other surface distortions
317(5)
12.3 Sewing defects caused by needles
322(2)
12.4 Material feeding and associated problems
324(1)
12.5 Problems in stitch formation
325(3)
12.6 Thread breakage
328(1)
12.7 Future trends
328(6)
12.8 Conclusions
334(1)
12.9 Sources of further information and advice
334(3)
References
334(3)
13 Alternative fabric-joining technologies
337(36)
E.M. Petrie
13.1 Alternatives to sewing
337(4)
13.2 Adhesive bonding
341(15)
13.3 Conventional thermal welding
356(7)
13.4 Advanced thermal-welding processes
363(7)
13.5 Conclusions
370(3)
References
371(2)
14 Seamless garments
373(12)
N. Nawaz
R. Nayak
14.1 Introduction
373(1)
14.2 Seamless technique
373(3)
14.3 Common seamless products
376(1)
14.4 Raw materials
377(1)
14.5 Seamless knitting machines
377(2)
14.6 Advantages of seamless garments
379(1)
14.7 Disadvantages of seamless garments
380(1)
14.8 Applications of seamless garments
381(1)
14.9 Future developments
382(1)
14.10 Conclusions
382(3)
References
383(2)
Part Three Garment finishing, quality control, care labelling and costing
385(84)
15 Garment-finishing techniques
387(18)
S. MacA. Fergusson
15.1 Introduction
387(1)
15.2 Garment finishing for functionality
388(5)
15.3 Knitwear finishing
393(3)
15.4 Denim garment finishing
396(1)
15.5 Pressing (factors and equipment)
397(4)
15.6 Future trends
401(1)
15.7 Conclusions
402(3)
References
402(3)
16 Quality control and quality assurance in the apparel industry
405(22)
C.N. Keist
16.1 Introduction
405(1)
16.2 Quality control in the apparel industry
406(17)
16.3 Future trends
423(1)
16.4 Conclusions
424(1)
16.5 Sources of further information and advice
425(2)
References
425(2)
17 Care labelling of clothing
427(20)
R. Nayak
R. Padhye
17.1 Introduction
427(1)
17.2 Requirements of care labelling
427(2)
17.3 Definition of care label
429(2)
17.4 Care labelling systems
431(13)
17.5 Future trends
444(1)
17.6 Conclusions
445(2)
References
446(1)
18 Garment costing
447(22)
A. Singh
K. Nijhar
18.1 Introduction
447(1)
18.2 Costing need
447(2)
18.3 Cost classification
449(1)
18.4 Cost elements
450(1)
18.5 Measures of efficiency
451(1)
18.6 Profitability
452(2)
18.7 Garment sales element analysis
454(7)
18.8 Mark-downs
461(2)
18.9 Managing cost through inventory control
463(1)
18.10 Apparel costing sheet analysis
464(3)
18.11 Conclusions
467(2)
References
467(2)
Index 469
Rajkishore Nayak is an Associate Professor with the School of Communication & Design (SCD) at RMIT Vietnam. His research interests include new materialism, sustainability in fashion and textiles; circular fashion; waste management; and ethical fashion. Dr. Nayak has published 15 books and more than 150 high-impact journal papers. He is working in collaboration with universities in Africa, Europe, USA and Asia. Dr. Nayak is currently an Editorial member of various journals, including the Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, and Fashion and Textiles. He is also an active member in SDC, ITA and AFC. He has extensive publications in high impact journals as well as books and book chapters.

Professor Rajiv Padhye is a Director of a Centre for Materials Innovation and Future Fashion at the School of Fashion and Textiles, RMIT University, Australia. He did his PhD from Leeds University, UK. He has several national and international publications in various journals. Rajiv has supervised many PhD and Masters Students and published several book chapters, monogram, journal articles and books. Recently Rajiv has been honored by RMIT University with Research Leadership” "Research excellence"and Media Person 2012” awards. In 2003 Textile Institute, Manchester UK, has honoured him with Fellowship of the Textile Institute (FTI).
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