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El. knyga: Handbook on Fabric Manufacturing

(Purushothama Consultants, Bangalore, India)
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Handbook on Fabric Manufacture deals mainly with the activities involved in manufacturing of grey fabrics, inspection of both grey and finished fabrics, presentation of samples for market, marketing and customer service activities where technical people are involved. The activities of value addition to the fabric by way of wet finishes like bleaching and dyeing, finishing printing etc., are explained in a separate book.

This book does not deal with any technology or design of the machine parts and mechanisms, but explains the methods of monitoring the activities in general. The book deals with the purpose of each process, the activities within the process, the knowledge required to run the process, the control points and check points, the do’s and don’ts of the process, normal problems observed in the process, the responsibilities and authorities of supervisors in the process, methods of working out the expected productivity and the workloads, so that the supervisor handling that process can handle it efficiently. The individuals have to study the manuals given by machinery manufacturers, and refer to the systems followed in their company and make their own manual for day to day activities. This book can be taken as a guide.

Preface iii
1 Activities in a fabric manufacturing unit 1(3)
1.1 Introduction
1(3)
2 Cone winding 4(17)
2.1 Winding
4(4)
2.1.1 Purpose of cone winding
6(1)
2.1.2 What cone winding should do?
7(1)
2.1.3 What cone winding should not do?
8(1)
2.2 General activities in cone winding
8(1)
2.3 Knowledge required for cone winding
9(1)
2.4 Control points and check points
10(3)
2.4.1 Control points in cone winding
10(1)
2.4.2 Check points at cone winding
10(3)
2.5 Normal problems in winding
13(2)
2.5.1 Improper splicing
13(1)
2.5.2 Electronic Yarn Clearer (EYC) failures
14(1)
2.5.3 Double end
14(1)
2.5.4 Stitches
14(1)
2.5.5 Soft/bulged cones
14(1)
2.5.6 Sunken nose/base
14(1)
2.5.7 Weight variation between cones
14(1)
2.5.8 Shade variation within cones
15(1)
2.5.9 Wrong cone tip or cone label
15(1)
2.6 Dos and don'ts for cone winding
15(2)
2.6.1 Dos
15(1)
2.6.2 Don'ts
16(1)
2.7 Responsibilities of supervisor in winding
17(1)
2.8 Authorities of supervisor in winding
18(1)
2.9 Some hints for better performance
18(1)
2.10 Applicable formulae
18(3)
2.10.1 Method of working out expected production, efficiency and workloads
18(3)
3 Winding-yarn dyeing section 21(23)
3.1 Purpose
21(4)
3.1.1 Purpose of soft winding
21(2)
3.1.2 Purpose of hard winding of dyed yarn
23(2)
3.2 General activities in winding
25(1)
3.2.1 Soft winding
25(1)
3.2.2 Hard winding
25(1)
3.3 Knowledge required for cone winding
25(1)
3.4 Routine activities of winding supervisor
26(2)
3.4.1 Activity specific to soft winding
27(1)
3.4.2 Activities specific to hard winding
27(1)
3.5 Control points and check points
28(7)
3.5.1 Control points for soft winding
28(1)
3.5.2 Check points for soft winding
29(2)
3.5.3 Control points in dyed yarn winding
31(1)
3.5.4 Check points in dyed yarn winding
32(3)
3.6 Normal problems
35(1)
3.6.1 Problems in oft winding
35(1)
3.6.2 Problems in dyed yarn winding (hard winding)
35(1)
3.7 Dos and Don'ts
36(3)
3.7.1 Dos
36(2)
3.7.2 Don'ts
38(1)
3.8 Responsibilities of supervisor in winding
39(1)
3.9 Authorities of winding supervisor
40(1)
3.10 Some hints for better performance
40(1)
3.11 Applicable formulae
40(4)
3.11.1 Working out production and workloads
41(3)
4 Quest for ideal yarn dye package 44(15)
4.1 Winding of soft package for dyeing
44(1)
4.1.1 Crossing or winding angle
44(1)
4.1.2 Winding ratio
45(1)
4.1.3 Package stability
45(1)
4.2 The package
45(3)
4.2.1 Package holder (yarn holding tube)
46(1)
4.2.2 SS dye springs
46(1)
4.2.3 Perforated cones
46(1)
4.2.4 Perforated plastic and SS dye tubes
47(1)
4.2.5 Package weight and density
48(1)
4.3 Conventional or random winding machines
48(3)
4.3.1 Patterning or ribbon formation and hard edges
49(1)
4.3.2 Hard edge formation
50(1)
4.3.3 Traverse of the package
50(1)
4.3.4 Weight release mechanism
50(1)
4.3.5 Length measuring device
50(1)
4.3.6 Balloon breaker
50(1)
4.3.7 Yarn tension controlling
50(1)
4.3.8 Winding speed
51(1)
4.4 Ideal dye package
51(1)
4.4.1 Requirements for a good dye package
51(1)
4.4.2 Dyeing related requirements
51(1)
4.4.3 Requirements from downstream processing and quality control
52(1)
4.5 Principles of winding
52(4)
4.5.1 Random winding
52(1)
4.5.2 Precision winding
53(1)
4.5.3 Step-precision winding: (DIGI winding or hybrid winding)
54(1)
4.5.4 Resulting packages - packages that conform to requirements
54(1)
4.5.5 Packages that do not conform to requirements
55(1)
4.6 Main features of dye package machines
56(1)
4.7 How to calculate the package density?
57(2)
5 HTHP yarn dyeing 59(18)
5.1 Introduction
59(1)
5.2 Purpose of yarn dyeing on HTHP machine
60(1)
5.2.1 What HTHP yarn dyeing should do?
61(1)
5.2.2 What HTHP yam dyeing should not do?
61(1)
5.3 General activities of Yarn dyeing in HTHP machine
61(4)
5.3.1 Standard operating procedure
62(3)
5.4 Knowledge required for HTHP dyeing
65(1)
5.5 Routine activities of yarn dyeing supervisor
65(2)
5.5.1 Activity specific to loading and unloading
66(1)
5.6 Control points and check points
67(4)
5.6.1 Control points for yarn dyeing
67(1)
5.6.2 Check points in am dyeing
68(3)
5.7 Normal problems in yarn dyeing
71(2)
5.7.1 Shade variation within cheeses
71(1)
5.7.2 Shade variation between cheeses
71(1)
5.7.3 Uneven dyeing
72(1)
5.7.4 Stains
72(1)
5.7.5 Improper shade or tonal difference between lots
72(1)
5.7.6 Poor fastness properties
72(1)
5.7.7 Brittle yarn
72(1)
5.7.8 Strength drop after dyeing/bleaching
72(1)
5.7.9 Hard packages after rewinding
73(1)
5.8 Dos and don'ts for supervisor
73(2)
5.8.1 Dos
73(1)
5.8.2 Don'ts
74(1)
5.9 Responsibilities of supervisor in yarn dyeing
75(1)
5.10 Authorities of yarn dyeing supervisor
75(1)
5.11 Some hints for better performance
76(1)
6 Yarn singeing - yarn gassing 77(8)
6.1 Yarn singeing
77(2)
6.1.1 What Singeing should do?
78(1)
6.1.2 What Singeing should not do?
79(1)
6.2 Quality of singeing
79(1)
6.3 General activities in yarn singeing
79(1)
6.4 Knowledge required for singeing
79(1)
6.5 Precautions to be taken for singeing
80(1)
6.6 Control points and check points
80(3)
6.6.1 Control points
80(1)
6.6.2 Check points
81(2)
6.7 Normal problems in yarn singeing
83(1)
6.8 Dos and don'ts for singeing
83(1)
6.8.1 Dos
83(1)
6.8.2 Don'ts
83(1)
6.9 Responsibilities of supervisor in singeing
84(1)
6.10 Authorities of supervisor in singeing
84(1)
6.11 Some hints for better performance
84(1)
7 Yarn mercerising 85(12)
7.1 Mercerising
85(1)
7.1.1 Changes during mercerising process
86(1)
7.1.2 Concentration, temperature and wet ability of mercerising lye
86(1)
7.2 Purpose of yarn mercerising
86(1)
7.2.1 What Mercerising should do?
87(1)
7.2.2 What Mercerisation should not do?
87(1)
7.3 Quality of Mercerising
87(1)
7.4 General activities in yarn mercerising
88(3)
7.4.1 Steps involved in one cycle of yarn mercerising
89(2)
7.5 Knowledge required for mercerising
91(1)
7.5.1 Significance of different steps in mercerising cycle
91(1)
7.5.2 Precautions to be taken for mercerising
92(1)
7.6 Control points and check points
92(3)
7.6.1 Control points
92(1)
7.6.2 Check points
93(2)
7.7 Normal problems in yarn mercerising
95(1)
7.8 Dos and Don'ts for mercerising
95(1)
7.8.1 Dos
95(1)
7.8.2 Don'ts
95(1)
7.9 Responsibilities of supervisor in mercerising
95(1)
7.10 Authorities of supervisor in mercerising
96(1)
7.11 Some hints for better performance
96(1)
8 Space dyeing of yarns 97(12)
8.1 What is Space dyeing?
97(2)
8.1.1 Warp printing
97(1)
8.1.2 Hank dyeing
97(2)
8.1.3 Space dyeing of cheeses
99(1)
8.2 Purpose of space dyeing of yarn
99(1)
8.2.1 What space dyeing should do?
100(1)
8.2.2 What Space dyeing should not do?
100(1)
8.3 Quality of space dyeing
100(1)
8.4 General activities in yarn space dyeing
100(3)
8.5 Knowledge required for space dyeing
103(1)
8.5.1 Significance of different steps in space dyeing cycle
103(1)
8.5.2 Precautions to be taken for space dyeing
104(1)
8.6 Control points and check points
104(2)
8.6.1 Control points
104(1)
8.6.2 Check points
105(1)
8.7 Normal problems in yam space dyeing
106(1)
8.8 Dos and don'ts for space dyeing
107(1)
8.8.1 Dos
107(1)
8.8.2 Don'ts
107(1)
8.9 Responsibilities of supervisor in yarn space dyeing
107(1)
8.10 Authorities of supervisor in yarn space dyeing
108(1)
8.11 Some hints for better performance
108(1)
9 Warping 109(20)
9.1 Purpose of warping
109(1)
9.2 Different types of warping
110(4)
9.2.1 Beam warping
110(1)
9.2.2 Sectional warping
111(1)
9.2.3 Draw-warping
111(1)
9.2.4 Ball warping
111(2)
9.2.5 Beam to beam rolling
113(1)
9.3 What warping should do?
114(1)
9.4 What warping should not do?
114(1)
9.5 General activities in warping
115(1)
9.6 Knowledge required for running warping
115(1)
9.7 Control points and check points
116(3)
9.7.1 Control points in warping
116(1)
9.7.2 Check points in warping
117(2)
9.8 Normal problems in warping
119(3)
9.8.1 Variation in tension within and between beams
120(1)
9.8.2 Missing ends
120(1)
9.8.3 Crossed ends
120(1)
9.8.4 Poor quality of beam preparation
120(1)
9.8.5 Production loss due to some cones running out early
121(1)
9.8.6 Pattern not proper
121(1)
9.8.7 Lost end
122(1)
9.8.8 Section mark
122(1)
9.8.9 Draw back
122(1)
9.9 Dos and don'ts for warping
122(1)
9.9.1 Dos
122(1)
9.9.2 Don'ts
123(1)
9.10 Responsibilities of supervisor in warping
123(1)
9.11 Authorities of supervisor in warping
124(1)
9.12 Some hints for better performance
125(1)
9.13 Applicable formulae
125(4)
9.13.1 Method of working the expected production and the workloads
125(4)
10 Sizing 129(17)
10.1 Definition and purpose
129(2)
10.1.1 Definition of sizing
129(1)
10.1.2 What sizing should do?
130(1)
10.1.3 What sizing should not do?
131(1)
10.2 Quality of sized beam
131(2)
10.2.1 Performance assessment of sizing is done by
132(1)
10.3 General activities in sizing
133(1)
10.4 Knowledge required for sizing
133(1)
10.5 Control points and check points
134(4)
10.5.1 Control points in sizing
134(1)
10.5.2 Check points in sizing
135(3)
10.6 Normal problems in sizing
138(2)
10.6.1 High size pick up
139(1)
10.6.2 Size pick up and fabric weight
139(1)
10.6.3 Low size pick up
139(1)
10.6.4 Uneven size pick up
139(1)
10.6.5 Low elongation at break
140(1)
10.6.6 High moisture content
140(1)
10.6.7 Low moisture content
140(1)
10.6.8 Excessive lappers
140(1)
10.7 Dos and don'ts for sizing
140(3)
10.7.1 Dos
141(1)
10.7.2 Don'ts
142(1)
10.8 Responsibilities of supervisor in sizing
143(1)
10.9 Authorities of supervisor in sizing
144(1)
10.10 Some hints for better performance
145(1)
10.11 Applicable formulae
145(1)
11 Basics of fabric structure 146(12)
11.1 Weaves
146(1)
11.2 Plain weave
146(3)
11.2.1 Basic basket weaves
147(1)
11.2.2 Other plain weaves
148(1)
11.3 Twill weave
149(1)
11.4 Satin/sateen weave
150(1)
11.5 Leno weave
151(1)
11.6 Honey comb weaves
152(1)
11.7 Huck a back weaves
152(2)
11.7.1 Waffle weave
153(1)
11.8 Crepe weaves
154(1)
11.9 Dobby fabrics
155(1)
11.10 Jacquard fabrics
155(1)
11.10.1 Types of Jacquard fabric
155(1)
11.11 Pile fabrics
156(1)
11.11.1 Uncut pile
156(1)
11.11.2 Cut pile
156(1)
11.11.3 Different types of cut pile fabric
156(1)
11.12 Double cloth
157(1)
12 Drawing-in 158(8)
12.1 Purpose of drawing-in
158(1)
12.1.1 What drawing-in should do?
158(1)
12.1.2 What drawing-in should not do?
159(1)
12.2 General activities in drawing-in
159(1)
12.3 Knowledge required for drawing-in
160(1)
12.4 Control points and check points
160(2)
12.4.1 Control points
160(1)
12.4.2 Check points
160(2)
12.4 Normal problems in drawing-in
162(1)
12.5 Dos and don'ts
163(1)
12.5.1 Dos
163(1)
12.5.2 Don'ts
164(1)
12.6 Responsibilities of supervisor in drawing-in
164(1)
12.7 Authorities of supervisor in drawing-in
165(1)
12.8 Some hints for better performance
165(1)
12.9 Applicable formulae
165(1)
13 Weaving 166(37)
13.1 Definitions and functions
166(2)
13.2 Methods of shedding
168(6)
13.2.1 Tappet shedding
168(3)
13.2.2 Dobby shedding
171(1)
13.2.3 Jacquard shedding
172(2)
13.3 Types of shed
174(3)
13.3.1 Open shed
174(3)
13.4 Methods of weft insertion
177(9)
13.4.1 Shuttle Looms
178(1)
13.4.2 Projectile looms
179(2)
13.4.3 Rapier (flexible and rigid) technology
181(1)
13.4.4 Jet looms
182(4)
13.5 Multi-phase loom
186(1)
13.6 Multi-axial weaving technology
187(7)
13.7 Weaving machines with embroidery unit
194(1)
13.8 Multi-axis three dimensional (3D) woven fabric
195(3)
13.8.1 3D orthogonal fabric
195(2)
13.8.2 Multi-axis 3D fabric
197(1)
13.9 Needle weaving technology
198(3)
13.10 Measuring weaving loom shed performance
201(2)
14 Weaving - shuttle looms 203(24)
14.1 Purpose of shuttle loom shed
203(1)
14.1.1 What shuttle loom shed should do?
203(1)
14.1.2 What loom shed should not do?
203(1)
14.2 Quality of loom shed
204(1)
14.3 General activities of a shuttle loom shed
204(1)
14.4 Knowledge required for running shuttle looms
205(1)
14.5 Routine activities of shuttle loom shed supervisor
205(2)
14.6 Control points and check points
207(7)
14.6.1 Control points in loom shed
207(1)
14.6.2 Check points in loom shed
208(6)
14.7 Normal problems in loom shed
214(9)
14.7.1 Yarn related problems
214(2)
14.7.2 Loom related problems
216(5)
14.7.3 Working related problems
221(2)
14.8 Dos and don'ts for weaving
223(1)
14.8.1 Dos
223(1)
14.8.2 Don'ts
223(1)
14.9 Responsibilities of weaving supervisor
224(1)
14.10 Authorities of weaving supervisor
225(1)
14.11 Some hints for better performance
225(1)
14.12 Applicable formulae
225(2)
15 Weaving - shuttle less looms 227(23)
15.1 Purpose of shuttle less Loom shed
227(1)
15.1.1 What loom shed should do?
227(1)
15.1.2 What loom shed should not do?
227(1)
15.2 Quality of loom shed
227(1)
15.3 General activities of a loom shed
228(1)
15.4 Knowledge required for running shuttle less looms
229(1)
15.5 Routine activities of loom shed supervisor
229(3)
15.6 Control points and check points
232(5)
15.6.1 Control points in loom shed
232(1)
15.6.2 Check points in loom shed
233(4)
15.7 Normal problems in loom shed
237(8)
15.7.1 Yarn related problems
237(1)
15.7.2 Loom related problems
238(4)
15.7.3 Working related problems
242(3)
15.8 Dos and don'ts for supervisor
245(1)
15.8.1 Dos
245(1)
15.8.2 Don'ts
245(1)
15.9 Responsibilities of weaving supervisor
246(1)
15.10 Authorities of weaving supervisor
247(1)
15.11 Some hints for better performance
247(1)
15.12 Applicable formulae
247(3)
15.12.1 Expected production and workloads
248(2)
16 Grey fabric inspection 250(8)
16.1 Purpose
250(1)
16.1.1 What grey inspection should do?
250(1)
16.1.2 What grey inspection should not do?
250(1)
16.2 General activities in grey inspection
251(1)
16.3 Knowledge required for Fabric inspection
251(2)
16.4 Control points and check points
253(2)
16.4.1 Control points
253(1)
16.4.2 Check points
253(2)
16.5 Normal problems in grey inspection
255(1)
16.6 Dos and don'ts for fabric inspection
255(2)
16.6.1 Dos
256(1)
16.6.2 Don'ts
256(1)
16.7 Responsibilities of supervisor in grey inspection
257(1)
16.8 Authorities of supervisor in grey inspection
257(1)
17 Mending of Defects in Fabrics 258(22)
17.1 What is mending?
258(1)
17.2 Mendable and non-mendable defects
259(1)
17.3 Stages of mending
260(2)
17.4 Mending methods for woven fabrics
262(9)
17.5 Mending a sweater
271(2)
17.6 Typical procedure followed in a mill for mending
273(1)
17.7 Care for fancy and special fabrics
274(1)
17.8 Possible mending defects
275(1)
17.9 Methods for removal of stains from fabrics made out of natural fibres
276(4)
18 Final Inspection and packing of fabrics 280(14)
18.1 Introduction
280(1)
18.2 Receiving
280(2)
18.2.1 Dos and don'ts for receiving
281(1)
18.3 Mapping faults and cutting finished fabrics
282(3)
18.3.1 Dos and don'ts for cutting
284(1)
18.4 Good cutting
285(2)
18.4.1 Dos and don'ts for good cutting
286(1)
18.5 Book folding
287(3)
18.5.1 Dos and don'ts for book folding
289(1)
18.6 Packing
290(4)
18.6.1 Dos and don'ts for packing
292(2)
19 Folding of fabrics 294(8)
19.1 Purpose of folding
294(1)
19.2 Hand folding - warkata
294(1)
19.3 Single folding machine
295(1)
19.4 Double folding machine
296(1)
19.5 Typical procedure for folding
297(1)
19.6 Control points and check points
298(2)
19.6.1 Control points
299(1)
19.6.2 Check points
299(1)
19.7 Dos and don'ts
300(2)
19.7.1 Dos
300(1)
19.7.2 Don'ts
301(1)
20 Fabric Sampling and Presentation 302(21)
20.1 Presentation of samples
302(1)
20.2 Different types of sample presentation
303(11)
20.2.1 Swatch cards
303(4)
20.2.2 Memo samples
307(3)
20.2.3 Sample hangers
310(4)
20.3 Sample cutting machines
314(4)
20.3.1 Manual sample cutting machine
314(1)
20.3.2 Motorised sample cutting machine
315(2)
20.3.3 Waterfall sample cutting machine
317(1)
20.3.4 Slitter - Rewinder
317(1)
20.4 Typical procedure followed for Sample preparation
318(3)
20.5 Control points and check points
321(1)
20.5.1 Control points
321(1)
20.5.2 Check points
321(1)
20.6 Dos and Don'ts
322(1)
20.6.1 Dos
322(1)
20.6.2 Don'ts
21 Textile marketing 323(16)
21.1 What is marketing?
323(1)
21.2 Marketing strategies
323(1)
21.3 Competitive environment in marketing
324(1)
21.4 Sales management
325(4)
21.4.1 Distribution channels
326(3)
21.5 Textile marketing
329(10)
21.5.1 Marketing grey fabrics to process houses
329(2)
21.5.2 Marketing finished fabrics to garment industry
331(1)
21.5.3 Marketing finished fabrics in retail shops
332(3)
21.5.4 Studying markets and booking orders for fabrics
335(1)
21.5.5 Handling orders
336(3)
22 Customer Services 339(41)
22.1 Importance of Customer Services
339(1)
22.2 Product development
340(16)
22.2.1 Design and development
341(1)
22.2.2 Single package yarn sizing
342(4)
22.2.3 Developing warp sheet using single end warping machine
346(3)
22.2.4 Developing desk loom samples
349(2)
22.2.5 Monitoring the designing activities of yardage
351(1)
22.2.6 Designing activity for bulk designing
352(2)
22.2.7 First piece checking for design
354(1)
22.2.8 Monitoring production hall of product development section
355(1)
22.3 Production planning and control
356(5)
22.3.1 Communicating and monitoring the production schedules
356(3)
22.3.2 Preparing monthly and quarterly production plans and reserving required yarns
359(1)
22.3.3 Production planning and control activity
360(1)
22.4 Quality assurance
361(7)
22.4.1 Yarn approval
361(1)
22.4.2 Measurement of density of soft wound package
362(1)
22.4.3 Sectional warping inspection
363(1)
22.4.4 Sizing machine inspection
364(1)
22.4.5 Process control in loom shed
365(2)
22.4.6 Greige fabric audit
367(1)
22.5 Market feedback and complaint analysis
368(7)
22.5.1 Handling market complaints and taking actions
368(6)
22.5.3 Handling situation in case of customer order cancellation
374(1)
22.6 Controlling of non-conformance and taking corrective actions
375(3)
22.7 Preventive actions
378(2)
References 380(4)
About the Author 384
B. Purushothama is a textile and quality management expert with over 43 years of experience in textile and apparel industry. He was honored by awarding TAIRatna by The Textile Association (India) during their Platinum Jubilee celebrations on 9th April, 2014. Mr. B. Purushothama has published various technical and management books and articles, presented papers in various national and international conferences, and also has written numerous social books in Kannada. The total books written by him cross over one hundred.
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