Contributor contact details |
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xiii | |
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles |
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xvii | |
Introduction |
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xxvii | |
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1 Types of fabric and their joining requirements |
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1 | (44) |
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1 | (1) |
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1.2 The main types of natural fibre |
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2 | (6) |
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8 | (4) |
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1.4 High performance fibres |
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12 | (2) |
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1.5 The process of creating fabrics from fibres |
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14 | (2) |
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1.6 Woven fabric structures |
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16 | (5) |
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1.7 Knitted fabric structures |
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21 | (6) |
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27 | (1) |
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1.9 Joining fabrics: seams and stitches |
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28 | (5) |
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1.10 Stitching in practice: the case of high performance fabrics |
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33 | (6) |
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1.11 Alternative methods of joining fabrics: welded seams |
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39 | (2) |
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41 | (2) |
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43 | (1) |
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43 | (1) |
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1.15 References and further reading |
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44 | (1) |
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45 | (178) |
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2 The mechanics of stitching |
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47 | (15) |
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47 | (1) |
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2.2 The principles of stitching |
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48 | (11) |
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59 | (1) |
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59 | (1) |
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2.5 Appendix: nomenclature and notation |
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60 | (2) |
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62 | (61) |
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62 | (1) |
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3.2 Types of sewing machine |
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63 | (5) |
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3.3 Machine feeding systems |
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68 | (5) |
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3.4 Machine settings and sewing quality |
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73 | (10) |
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3.5 Needle size and point type |
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83 | (3) |
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3.6 Stitch classification and applications |
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86 | (3) |
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3.7 Seam classification and applications |
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89 | (4) |
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93 | (8) |
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3.9 Seaming quality problems |
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101 | (3) |
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3.10 Seam pucker: causes and prevention |
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104 | (2) |
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3.11 Thread breakage: causes and prevention |
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106 | (2) |
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108 | (1) |
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3.13 Slipped/missed stitching: causes and prevention |
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108 | (2) |
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3.14 Uneven seams: causes and prevention |
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110 | (1) |
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3.15 Comparing welded and sewn seams |
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111 | (9) |
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120 | (1) |
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3.17 References and further reading |
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120 | (3) |
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4 Mechanisms of sewing machines |
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123 | (26) |
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123 | (1) |
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4.2 The evolution of the sewing machine |
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124 | (2) |
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4.3 Machine categorisation |
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126 | (1) |
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4.4 Integrated stitching unit (ISU) |
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127 | (5) |
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4.5 Types of motors used in sewing machines |
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132 | (2) |
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4.6 Three-thread overlock with a microprocessor |
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134 | (1) |
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4.7 Mechanised sewing machines |
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135 | (3) |
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4.8 Semi-automatic machines, automated workstations and transfer lines |
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138 | (6) |
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4.9 Advantages and limitations of machine automation |
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144 | (1) |
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4.10 Computer numerical control (CNC) |
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145 | (1) |
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4.11 Achieving fully automated apparel manufacture through the application of robotics |
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145 | (1) |
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146 | (2) |
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4.13 Sources of further information and advice |
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148 | (1) |
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4.14 References and further reading |
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148 | (1) |
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5 Problems relating to sewing |
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149 | (26) |
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149 | (1) |
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150 | (1) |
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150 | (10) |
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5.4 Seam problems related to material feeding |
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160 | (2) |
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5.5 Problems in stitch formation |
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162 | (5) |
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5.6 Seam pucker and other surface distortions |
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167 | (2) |
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169 | (2) |
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5.8 Sources of further information and advice |
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171 | (1) |
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171 | (4) |
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6 The quality and performance of sewn seams |
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175 | (33) |
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175 | (1) |
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176 | (11) |
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6.3 Seam extensibility and recovery |
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187 | (2) |
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189 | (5) |
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194 | (1) |
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195 | (2) |
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197 | (1) |
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6.8 Barrier properties of seams |
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198 | (1) |
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6.9 Flame retardancy of seams |
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199 | (1) |
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6.10 Degradation/damage of seams |
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200 | (3) |
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6.11 Sources of further information and advice |
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203 | (1) |
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203 | (5) |
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7 Intelligent sewing systems for garment automation and robotics |
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208 | (15) |
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208 | (1) |
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7.2 Developments in the automation of sewing |
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208 | (10) |
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7.3 Operational principles of the intelligent sewability environment (ISE) |
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218 | (2) |
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220 | (1) |
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221 | (2) |
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Part II Adhesive bonding of textiles |
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223 | (130) |
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8 Adhesive bonding of textiles: principles, types of adhesive and methods of use |
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225 | (50) |
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8.1 Introduction to adhesives in the textile industry |
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225 | (10) |
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8.2 Reasons for the success and failure of adhesives |
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235 | (8) |
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8.3 Classification of adhesives used in textile applications |
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243 | (9) |
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252 | (12) |
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8.5 Trends in adhesive types |
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264 | (10) |
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274 | (1) |
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9 Adhesives bonding of textiles: applications |
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275 | (34) |
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9.1 Introduction: textiles and adhesive joining |
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275 | (7) |
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9.2 Adhesives and adhesive applications |
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282 | (11) |
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9.3 Properties achieved by adhesive joining |
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293 | (4) |
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9.4 Examples of adhesive use |
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297 | (9) |
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306 | (1) |
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307 | (1) |
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307 | (2) |
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10 Bonding requirements in coating and laminating of textiles |
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309 | (44) |
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309 | (4) |
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10.2 Materials and adhesives in coating and laminating |
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313 | (8) |
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321 | (11) |
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332 | (4) |
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10.5 Properties and applications of coated and laminated fabrics |
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336 | (9) |
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345 | (1) |
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346 | (1) |
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347 | (6) |
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Part III Welding technologies |
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353 | (112) |
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11 The use of heat sealing, hot air and hot wedge to join textile materials |
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355 | (19) |
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11.1 Heat sealing of textiles: introduction |
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355 | (1) |
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11.2 Equipment for heat sealing |
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356 | (3) |
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11.3 Factors affecting the quality of heat sealing |
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359 | (3) |
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11.4 Applications of heat sealing in textiles |
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362 | (1) |
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11.5 Hot air wedge and hot wedge welding of textiles: introduction |
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362 | (1) |
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11.6 Equipment for hot air/wedge welding |
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363 | (5) |
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11.7 Factors affecting the quality of hot air/wedge welding |
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368 | (3) |
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11.8 Applications of hot air/wedge welding in textiles |
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371 | (1) |
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11.9 References and further reading |
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372 | (2) |
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12 Ultrasonic and dielectric welding of textiles |
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374 | (24) |
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12.1 Ultrasonic welding: an introduction |
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374 | (1) |
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12.2 Equipment for ultrasonic welding |
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375 | (4) |
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12.3 Factors affecting the quality of ultrasonic welding |
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379 | (6) |
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12.4 Applications of ultrasonic welding in textiles |
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385 | (3) |
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12.5 Dielectric welding: an introduction |
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388 | (2) |
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12.6 Equipment for dielectric welding |
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390 | (4) |
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12.7 Factors affecting the quality of dielectric welding |
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394 | (1) |
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12.8 Applications of dielectric welding |
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394 | (1) |
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12.9 References and further reading |
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395 | (3) |
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13 Laser seaming of fabrics |
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398 | (37) |
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398 | (1) |
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13.2 The laser welding process |
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398 | (3) |
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13.3 The main processing parameters in laser welding and their effects |
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401 | (4) |
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13.4 Equipment in laser welding |
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405 | (9) |
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13.5 Textile materials that can be laser welded |
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414 | (2) |
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13.6 Joint designs in laser welding |
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416 | (2) |
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13.7 Monitoring and quality control in laser welding |
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418 | (2) |
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13.8 Comparison between stitched and laser welded seams |
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420 | (5) |
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13.9 Applications of laser welding |
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425 | (8) |
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433 | (1) |
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434 | (1) |
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14 Properties and performance of welded or bonded seams |
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435 | (30) |
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435 | (1) |
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14.2 Performance properties of seams |
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436 | (21) |
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14.3 Quality evaluation of welded or bonded seams |
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457 | (1) |
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458 | (3) |
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461 | (4) |
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Part IV Applications of joining textiles |
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465 | (118) |
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15 The appearance of seams in non-iron shirts |
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467 | (11) |
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467 | (1) |
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15.2 Wrinkle-free fabrics |
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467 | (1) |
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15.3 Non-iron shirts and seam pucker |
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468 | (2) |
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15.4 Interlinings as sewing aids |
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470 | (1) |
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15.5 The stitching of non-iron shirts |
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471 | (2) |
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15.6 Discussion and conclusion |
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473 | (2) |
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475 | (1) |
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15.8 Appendix: key terms and definitions |
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476 | (2) |
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16 Seams in car seat coverings: properties and performance |
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478 | (29) |
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478 | (1) |
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16.2 Materials and machines for sewing car seat covers |
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479 | (11) |
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16.3 Influence of the seam on materials for making car seat covers |
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490 | (8) |
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16.4 Seaming problems in car seat covers and their solution |
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498 | (3) |
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501 | (2) |
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503 | (1) |
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504 | (1) |
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504 | (3) |
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17 Joining of wearable electronic components |
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507 | (29) |
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507 | (3) |
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510 | (1) |
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511 | (1) |
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17.4 Fabrics and composites |
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512 | (2) |
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17.5 Connecting technologies |
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514 | (8) |
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17.6 Requirements of electronic interconnects |
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522 | (4) |
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526 | (4) |
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530 | (2) |
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17.9 Sources of further information and advice |
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532 | (1) |
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533 | (1) |
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533 | (3) |
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18 Joining of technical textiles with stringent seam demands |
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536 | (29) |
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536 | (2) |
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18.2 Joining techniques for textiles with stringent seam demands |
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538 | (7) |
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18.3 Applications of stringent seams in technical textiles |
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545 | (17) |
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562 | (1) |
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18.5 Sources of further information and advice |
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562 | (1) |
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563 | (1) |
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563 | (2) |
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19 Nonwoven materials and joining techniques |
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565 | (17) |
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565 | (1) |
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19.2 Principles of nonwovens |
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565 | (5) |
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570 | (1) |
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19.4 Web formation technology |
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571 | (3) |
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19.5 Web bonding technology |
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574 | (1) |
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19.6 Nonwoven fabric finishing |
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575 | (1) |
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19.7 Techniques for joining nonwoven materials |
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575 | (3) |
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19.8 Future trends in the nonwoven market |
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578 | (3) |
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581 | (1) |
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581 | (1) |
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20 Epilogue: joining textiles |
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582 | (1) |
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Index |
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583 | |