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Man of Fashion: Peacock Males and Perfect Gentlemen [Kietas viršelis]

  • Formatas: Hardback, 208 pages, aukštis x plotis: 300x200 mm, weight: 1300 g, 80 colour and 140 b&w illustrations, index, lists
  • Išleidimo metai: 06-Oct-1997
  • Leidėjas: Thames & Hudson Ltd
  • ISBN-10: 0500017972
  • ISBN-13: 9780500017975
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
  • Formatas: Hardback, 208 pages, aukštis x plotis: 300x200 mm, weight: 1300 g, 80 colour and 140 b&w illustrations, index, lists
  • Išleidimo metai: 06-Oct-1997
  • Leidėjas: Thames & Hudson Ltd
  • ISBN-10: 0500017972
  • ISBN-13: 9780500017975
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
This volume puts male sexuality on the catwalk. It is a designed and illustrated celebration of men throught the ages who have dressed extravagently in order to show their power, to express their sexuality, to set themselves apart from the conformist herd - or simply out of joie de vivre. The author charts the male's stylish and self-confident course through history, from the medieval knights, with their lavish heraldic dress, to the stuffed and codpieced Elizabethans, the fops, incroyables, bucks, dandies and swells, to the aesthetes, zooties, mods, hippies and punks of the 20th-century. McDowell discusses the influence of sport, class, movies and popular music on later generations and focuses on figures such as royalty, cowboys, sportsmen and screen idols - who have provided role models for the 20th-century. The metamorphosis of the late 20th-century fashionable man is considered, with reference to the influence of fashion photographers and the influence of gay culture. It also looks at the new generation of menswear designers - Versace, Armani, Ralph Lauren and Gaultier.
MASCULINE CURVES 10(2)
SLASH 12(2)
UNDERWEAR 14(2)
CODPIECES 16(2)
LACE 18(2)
THE SUN KING 20(2)
HIGH STYLE 22(3)
CHAPTER 1 COURTLY GLORIES
25(8)
The Middle Ages
The materials of fashion
Sumptuary laws
Young fashion
Edward II The Dukes of Burgundy
The poulaine
The slashing craze
CHAPTER 2 DRESSED FOR POWER
33(8)
Henry VIII
Charles V
The codpiece
Spanish sobriety
Black The Fashionables
Court extravagance
CHAPTER 3 VANITY AND OSTENTATION
41(8)
Louis XIV at Versailles
The Petits-Maitres
The Macaronis Le Style anglais
The Incroyables
CHAPTER 4 LICENCE AND AUTHORITY
49(24)
The Bucks and Bloods
George `Beau' Brummell
Tailoring The Prince of Wales
THE DANDIES
58(2)
VESTED INTEREST
60(2)
THE PERFECT GENTLEMAN
62(2)
MEASURE FOR MEASURE
64(2)
THE ART OF CUTTING
66(2)
MILITARY STYLE
68(2)
LOUNGE LIZARD
70(3)
CHAPTER 5 HEROIC STANCES
73(7)
Comte d' Orsay
Etiquette manuals and `silver fork' novels
Writers on dress
Legs - the erogenous zone The splendour of military dress
CHAPTER 6 FLYING THE FLAG
80(25)
The development of ready-to-wear clothing
North American quality ready-made
English perfection Oscar Wilde and the Aesthetic Movement
Swells and Mashers
The influence of Edward VII A new informality
Gustav Jaeger: dressing for health
TWEED
90(2)
DRESSED TO KILL
92(2)
SAVILE ROW
94(2)
IVY LEAGUE
96(2)
CHECKS AND TARTANS
98(2)
TIES
100(2)
VIBRANT VELVET
102(3)
CHAPTER 7 HEALTH AND STRENGTH
105(7)
The Arrow Shirt man
The influence of the cowboy
Western items: the stetson, the cowboy boot, denim jeans G. Q. and Esquire
Cinema heroes
CHAPTER 8 CASUAL YOUTH
112(25)
Inessentials disappear
U. S. small-town style
The zoot suit
The G. I. s
Teddy Boys Youthful heroes
The Wild One
STYLE ON WHEELS
122(2)
DRESSING FOR DINNER
124(2)
THE COWBOY
126(2)
IN THE NAVY
128(2)
TEDDY BOYS
130(2)
KNITWEAR
132(2)
ITALIAN STYLE
134(3)
CHAPTER 9 SMART STREETS
137(32)
Fifties style
The influence of Italy
Carnaby Street
Hardy Amies
John Stephen
Space-age fashion Pierre Cardin
Black style
The ethnic look
Hippies
Skinheads
The effect of Vietnam A Clockwork Orange
Cinema heroics
Punk
DRESSING DOWN
154(2)
BEACHBOYS
156(2)
HOODLUM HEROES
158(2)
POWER PADDING
160(2)
CONTRASTS
162(2)
IN THE LOCKER ROOM
164(2)
LEATHER
166(3)
CHAPTER 10 SEXING IDENTITY
169(35)
The new male icon
The gay scene
The tailor/designer dilemma
Ralph Lauren
Calvin Klein and underwear The young man as sexual model
Sporting gear
Soldier and sportsman as heroes
Giorgio Armani Gianni Versace
Designer-led male fashion
Jean-Paul Gaultier
John Bartlett
Elite menswear companies Dolce & Gabbana
Young American designers
The Belgian input
Franco Moschino Young London designers
Paul Smith
The Japanese influence
Sportswear suppliers
FUNKY
178(2)
BLACK
180(2)
ARMANI
182(2)
GAULTIER
184(2)
STRIPES
186(2)
DECADENCE
188(2)
BODY BEAUTIFUL
190(14)
Acknowledgments 204(1)
Photographic Acknowledgments 205(1)
Index 206