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El. knyga: Political and sartorial styles: Britain and its colonies in the long nineteenth century

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This book starts with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style. It offers a ground-breaking examination of the role of dress in forming political identities and in communicating social and political messages during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. It also makes timely connections to present-day concerns.

Starting with the premise that clothing is political and that analysing clothing can enhance understanding of political style, this collection explores the relationships among political theory, dress, and self-presentation during a period in which imperial and colonial empires assumed their modern form. Organised under three thematic clusters, the volume’s chapters range from an analysis of the uniforms worn by West India regiments stationed in the Caribbean to the smock frock donned by rural agricultural labourers, and from the self-presentations of members of parliament, political thinkers, and imperial administrators to the dress of characters and caricatures in novels, paintings, and political cartoon. With its interdisciplinary approach, the book will appeal to nineteenth-century cultural and social historians and literary critics as well as advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students whose research and teaching interests include gender, politics, material culture, and imperialism.
List of plates
vii
List of figures
ix
List of contributors
xii
Acknowledgements xv
Introduction: Jim Crow's tuxedo 1(28)
Kevin A. Morrison
Part I Between metaphor and materiality
1 Smock frock farmer or smock frock radical? Political interpretations of one garment in nineteenth-century England
29(27)
Alison Toplis
2 A delicate balance of power: Victorian tailors and their gentlemen clients
56(22)
Christopher Kent
3 Second-hand clothes, second-hand politics: sartorial exchange, social reform, and the work of the novel in Walter Besant's Children of Gibeon
78(21)
Peter Katz
Part II Reading appearances
4 `If you want to get ahead, get a hat': manliness, power, and politics via the top hat
99(27)
Ariel Beaujot
5 Dressing for disinterestedness: Herbert Spencer, John Stuart Mill, and John Morley
126(25)
Kevin A. Morrison
6 Sartorial subversion and the House of Commons: political identities, meanings, and the responses to MPs' dress, c. 1850-1914
151(20)
Marcus Morris
7 Dressing for the vote in Ford Madox Brown's Work
171(22)
Janice Carlisle
Part III Global connections and entanglements
8 Spectacles of grandeur and fabrics for the brave: the West India Regiments' dress until 1900
193(28)
Steeve O. Buckridge
9 `The philosophy of clothes': politics and dress in Melbourne Punch, 1860s-1870s
221(25)
Shu-chuan Yan
10 Gertrude Bell, femme imperiale - Elizabeth Bishop
246(21)
Index 267
Kevin A. Morrison is Provincial Chair Professor, University Distinguished Professor, and Professor of British Literature in the School of Foreign Languages at Henan University -- .