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El. knyga: Refashioning Medieval and Early Modern Dress: A Tribute to Robin Netherton

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All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices.
Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies.

GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University.

Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.

Essays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and beyond.

All those who work with historical dress and textiles must in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and transformation of material items for purposes of religion, memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich, exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices.
Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies.

GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester; MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State University.

Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman, Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.

Recenzijos

This beautifully affectionate tribute to Robin Netherton, co-founding editor (with Gale R. Owen-Crocker) of Medieval Clothing and Textiles (2006-), sets a new standard for such volumes and demonstrates how those who do the under appreciated work of organizing, editing, and mentoring make significant contributions to medieval studies. [ ...] This volume was clearly a labor of love and is a fitting tribute to a remarkable scholar. * SPECULUM *

List of Illustrations
ix
Preface xiii
Contributors xiv
Introduction 1(4)
Gale R. Owen-Crocker
Maren Clegg Hyer
Robin Netherton: A Life 5(12)
Gina Frasson-Hudson
Charney Goldman
Gale R. Owen-Crocker
PART I RE-IMAGINING GARMENTS
1 Precious Offerings: Dressing Devotional Statues in Medieval England
17(12)
Maren Clegg Hyer
2 Dressing the Earth: Eleventh-century Garb in the Exultet Roll of Bari
29(16)
Lucia Sinisi
3 Dress, Disguise, and Shape-Shifting in Nibelungenlied and Volsunga Saga
45(14)
M.A. Nordtorp-Madson
4 Survival, Recovery, Restoration, Re-creation: The Long Life of Medieval Garments
59(16)
Elizabeth Coatsworth
5 Coping with Connoisseurship: Issues in Attribution and Purpose Raised by an Indo-Portuguese "Vestment" in the Metropolitan Museum of Art
75(20)
Lisa Evans
PART II SHIFTING POLITICAL AND SPIRITUAL STATUS
6 Refashioning St. Edward: Clothing and Textiles
95(30)
Gale R. Owen-Crocker
7 "Dressed to Kill:" The Clothing of Christ's Tormentors in an Illustrated Polish Devotional Manuscript
125(32)
John B. Friedman
8 Treason and Clothing in Sixteenth-century England: The Case of Gregory "Sweetlips" Botolf
157(18)
Melanie Schuessler Bond
PART III MANAGING GENDER AND SOCIAL CLASS
9 The Lexicon of Apparel in the Pastourelle Corpus: Refashioning Shepherdesses
175(18)
Sarah-Grace Heller
10 The Real Unreal: Chretien de Troyes's Fashioning of Erec and Enide
193(18)
Monica L. Wright
11 Regulating and Refashioning Dress: Sumptuary Legislation and its Enforcement in Fourteenth- and Early Fifteenth-century Lucca
211(26)
Christine Meek
12 Nuns' Clothing and Ornaments in English and Northern French Ecclesiastical Regulations
237(18)
Thomas M. Izbicki
13 Clothing Dependents: Dress of Children and Servants in the Petre Household, 1586-1587
255(26)
Drea R. Heed
Index 281(13)
Tabula Gratulatoria 294
Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor Emerita of the University of Manchester where she was previously Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies. MAREN CLEGG HYER teaches at Snow College in Ephraim, Utah. She specializes in researching textiles and other elements of material culture in the literary imagery of early medieval England. Gale R. Owen-Crocker is Professor Emerita of the University of Manchester where she was previously Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture and Director of the Manchester Centre for Anglo-Saxon Studies. MAREN CLEGG HYER teaches at Snow College in Ephraim, Utah. She specializes in researching textiles and other elements of material culture in the literary imagery of early medieval England. MELANIE SCHUESSLER BOND is the Professor of Costume Design at Eastern Michigan University. Monica L. Wright is the Granger and Debaillon Professor of French and Medieval Studies at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette, USA. Her research focuses on the use of clothing in medieval French literature. SARAH-GRACE HELLER is Associate Professor and Chair of French and Italian at the Ohio State University.