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El. knyga: Tanning Chemistry: The Science of Leather

(The University of Northampton, UK), (The University of Northampton, UK)
  • Formatas: 685 pages
  • Išleidimo metai: 07-Nov-2019
  • Leidėjas: Royal Society of Chemistry
  • Kalba: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781788019071
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
Tanning Chemistry: The Science of LeatherDidesnis paveikslėlis
  • Formatas: 685 pages
  • Išleidimo metai: 07-Nov-2019
  • Leidėjas: Royal Society of Chemistry
  • Kalba: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781788019071
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This book offers a state-of-the-art view of leather making, based on the scientific principles underpinning the technology. In particular, it contributes to the understanding of the modern leather industry, allowing practitioners to make judgements about day-to-day problems in the tannery and how change can be applied in a predictable way. Major themes running through the book are the economics and environmental impact of leather making and how these will ensure the sustainability of the industry.

This second edition of Tony Covington’s Tanning Chemistry is a revision, update and extension in collaboration with a new co-author, Will Wise. The update reflects the advances made in the past decade, including a discussion of the impact of new information concerning the chemistry of sulfide. The original chapters have been re-organised and new chapters on novel modes of reagent delivery and the principles of finishing are now included. Enzymology is addressed as a separate topic, as are environmental impact and the future of leather.

The book will be useful to all those involved in the supply chain, from farm, through students, chemical suppliers and tanners, to leather goods brands. Leather science is the key to understanding leather technology, to make it work, to make it work better and to keep it ahead of the competition.



This book offers an up to date view of the state of the art of leather making, based on the scientific principles underpinning the technology aimed at all those involved in the supply chain, from farm, through students, chemical suppliers and tanners, to leather goods brands.
Introduction xxvii
Introduction to the Second Edition xxxiii
Glossary of Terms xxxv
1 Collagen and Skin Structure 1(31)
1.1 Introduction
1(3)
1.2 The Hierarchy of Collagen Structure
4(4)
1.2.1 Primary Structure
5(1)
1.2.2 Secondary Structure
6(1)
1.2.3 Tertiary Structure
6(1)
1.2.4 Quaternary Structure
7(1)
1.3 The Triple Helix
8(2)
1.4 Isoelectric Point
10(2)
1.5 Collagen and Water
12(4)
1.6 The Quarter Stagger Array
16(4)
1.7 Fibrils
20(2)
1.8 Fibril Bundles
22(1)
1.9 Fibres
23(1)
1.10 Other Collagens
23(2)
1.10.1 Type III Collagen
23(1)
1.10.2 Type IV Collagen
24(1)
1.10.3 Type VII Collagen
24(1)
1.11 The Chemistry of Collagen
25(1)
1.12 Hydrothermal Stability
26(4)
References
30(2)
2 Skin and Its Components 32(49)
2.1 Introduction
32(8)
2.1.1 Epidermis
33(3)
2.1.2 Grain
36(2)
2.1.3 Junction
38(1)
2.1.4 Corium
38(1)
2.1.5 The Flesh Layer
39(1)
2.1.6 Flesh
40(1)
2.2 Skin Features and Components
40(9)
2.2.1 Hair or Wool
40(1)
2.2.2 Follicles
40(1)
2.2.3 Erector Pili Muscle
41(1)
2.2.4 Sweat Glands
42(1)
2.2.5 Veins and Arteries
42(2)
2.2.6 Elastin
44(5)
2.3 Non-structural Components of Skin
49(7)
2.3.1 Glycosaminoglycans (GAGS)
49(5)
2.3.2 Melanins
54(2)
2.4 The Skin
56(6)
2.4.1 Area of Skin or Leather
59(3)
2.5 Processing
62(13)
2.5.1 Splitting
62(2)
2.5.2 Grain-to-corium Thickness Ratio
64(1)
2.5.3 Fleshing
65(1)
2.5.4 Dung
65(10)
2.6 Variations in Skin Structure Due to Species
75(4)
2.6.1 Hereford Cattle and Vertical Fibre
75(1)
2.6.2 Sheepskin
76(1)
2.6.3 Cutaneous Fat
77(2)
References
79(2)
3 Curing and Preservation of Hides and Skins 81(27)
3.1 Introduction
81(5)
3.2 Drying
86(3)
3.3 Salting
89(8)
3.3.1 Stacking
92(1)
3.3.2 Drum Curing
92(1)
3.3.3 Types of Salt
93(2)
3.3.4 Additives for Salt
95(1)
3.3.5 Dry Salting
96(1)
3.3.6 Brining
96(1)
3.4 Alternative Osmolytes
97(3)
3.4.1 Potassium Chloride
97(1)
3.4.2 Sugars
98(1)
3.4.3 Sodium Silicate
98(1)
3.4.4 Poly(Ethylene Glycol)
99(1)
3.5 pH Control
100(1)
3.6 Temperature Control
101(3)
3.6.1 Chilling
101(1)
3.6.2 Iceing
102(1)
3.6.3 Biocide Ice
103(2)
3.6.4 Freezing
105
3.7 Biocides
104(1)
3.8 Radiation Curing
105(1)
3.9 Fresh Stock
106(1)
References
106(2)
4 Soaking 108(22)
4.1 Introduction to Beamhouse Processing
108(2)
4.2 The Soaking Process
110(7)
4.2.1 Rehydration
112(1)
4.2.2 Removal of Salt
113(2)
4.2.3 Cleaning the Pelt
115(1)
4.2.4 Removal of Non-structural Proteins
115(1)
4.2.5 Removal of Dung
115(1)
4.2.6 Removal of Hyaluronic Acid
116(1)
4.3 Conditions in Soaking
117(3)
4.3.1 Long Float
117(1)
4.3.2 Change of Float
117(1)
4.3.3 Temperature
117(1)
4.3.4 pH
118(1)
4.3.5 Time
118(1)
4.3.6 Mechanical Action
118(2)
4.4 Components of Soaking Solutions
120(3)
4.4.1 Water
120(1)
4.4.2 Detergents
120(1)
4.4.3 Soaking Enzymes
121(2)
4.5 Biocides
123(4)
4.5.1 pH
125(1)
4.5.2 Temperature
126(1)
4.5.3 Time
126(1)
4.5.4 Fresh Hides or Skins
126(1)
4.5.5 Dried Hides
126(1)
4.5.6 Dirty Rawstock
126(1)
4.5.7 Putrefied Rawstock
126(1)
4.5.8 Nature of the Cure
127(1)
4.5.9 Water Quality
127(1)
4.5.10 Use of Enzymes
127(1)
4.5.11 Soaking Procedure
127(1)
4.6 Role of the Erector Pili Muscle
127(2)
References
129(1)
5 Unhairing 130(27)
5.1 Introduction
130(1)
5.2 Keratin and the Structure of Hair
131(6)
5.3 Hair Burning
137(8)
5.3.1 The Role of Swelling
142(2)
5.3.2 Chemical Variations
144(1)
5.4 Immunisation
145(1)
5.5 Hair Saving
146(1)
5.6 Variations in Unhairing Technologies
147(3)
5.6.1 Heidemann's Darmstadt Process
147(1)
5.6.2 Oxidative Unhairing
148(1)
5.6.3 Reductive Unhairing
149(1)
5.6.4 Acid Unhairing
149(1)
5.7 Enzymes in Unhairing
150(2)
5.7.1 Enzyme-assisted Chemical Unhairing
150(1)
5.7.2 Chemical-assisted Enzyme Unhairing
151(1)
5.7.3 Enzyme Hair Saving
151(1)
5.7.4 Keratinase
152(1)
5.8 Painting
152(2)
5.9 The Role of Shaving in Unhairing
154(1)
References
155(2)
6 Liming 157(24)
6.1 Introduction
157(5)
6.1.1 Float
158(1)
6.1.2 pH
158(1)
6.1.3 Temperature
159(2)
6.1.4 Time
161(1)
6.2 Purposes of Liming
162(13)
6.2.1 Removal of the Non-collagenous Components of the Skin
163(1)
6.2.2 Splitting the Fibre Structure at the Level of the Fibril Bundles
163(1)
6.2.3 Swelling the Pelt
163(5)
6.2.4 Hydrolysis of Peptide Bonds
168(1)
6.2.5 Hydrolysis of Amide Sidechains
169(4)
6.2.6 Hydrolysis of Guanidino Sidechains
173(1)
6.2.7 Removal of Dermatan Sulfate
174(1)
6.2.8 Fat Hydrolysis
175(1)
6.3 Variations in Liming
175(2)
6.3.1 Chemical Variations
175(1)
6.3.2 pH Variations
176(1)
6.3.3 Biochemical Variations
176(1)
6.3.4 Recycling
177(1)
6.4 Limeblast
177(2)
References
179(2)
7 Deliming 181(15)
7.1 Introduction
181(2)
7.2 Deliming Agents
183(10)
7.2.1 Water
183(1)
7.2.2 Strong Acids
184(1)
7.2.3 Weak Acids
185(1)
7.2.4 Acidic Salts
186(1)
7.2.5 Ammonium Salts
186(2)
7.2.6 Alternative Buffers
188(1)
7.2.7 Hydroxyl 'Sinks'
189(1)
7.2.8 Carbon Dioxide
190(3)
7.3 Melanin
193(1)
7.4 Limeblast
194(1)
References
195(1)
8 Bating 196(8)
8.1 Introduction
196(1)
8.2 Factors Affecting Enzyme Catalysis
197(5)
8.2.1 Temperature
197(1)
8.2.2 pH
198(1)
8.2.3 Concentration: Bate Formulations
199(1)
8.2.4 Time
200(1)
8.2.5 Origin
201(1)
8.3 Monitoring Bating
202(1)
References
203(1)
9 Pickling 204(20)
9.1 Introduction
204(3)
9.2 Processing Conditions
207(5)
9.2.1 Float
207(1)
9.2.2 Salt
207(5)
9.3 Lyotropic Swelling
212(1)
9.4 Sulfuric Acid
213(1)
9.5 Hydrochloric Acid
213(1)
9.6 Formic Acid
214(2)
9.7 Colour
216(2)
9.8 Non-swelling Acids
218(2)
9.9 Pickle Formulations
220(1)
9.10 Implications of Pickling for Chrome Tanning
221(1)
9.11 No-pickle Processing
222(1)
References
223(1)
10 Tanning 224(19)
10.1 Introduction
224(5)
10.2 Hydrothermal Stability
229(8)
10.2.1 Shrinkage Temperature (Ts)
232(1)
10.2.2 Boil Test
233(1)
10.2.3 Differential Scanning Calorimetry
234(2)
10.2.4 Hydrothermal Isometric Tension
236(1)
10.3 Historical Tannages
237(5)
10.3.1 Sulfur Tanning
238(1)
10.3.2 Silica Tanning
238(1)
10.3.3 Phosphate Tanning
239(1)
10.3.4 Quinone Tanning
239(1)
10.3.5 Aldehydes
240(1)
10.3.6 Furfuryl Alcohol
241(1)
10.3.7 Sulfite Cellulose (Lignosulfonate)
241(1)
References
242(1)
11 Mineral Tanning: Chromium(m) 243(65)
11.1 Introduction
243(2)
11.2 Preparation of Chrome Tanning Salts
245(2)
11.3 Brief Review of the Development of Chrome Tanning
247(1)
11.4 Chromium(m) Chemistry
248(5)
11.5 Chrome Tanning Reaction
253(11)
11.6 Basification
264(7)
11.6.1 Soluble Alkaline Salts
266(1)
11.6.2 Carboxylate Salts
267(1)
11.6.3 Other Basic Salts
268(1)
11.6.4 Self-basifying Salts
268(3)
11.7 Avoiding Basification
271(1)
11.8 Reactivity at High Basicity
272(2)
11.9 Role of Temperature
274(1)
11.10 Relative Effects of pH and Temperature
275(6)
11.11 Masking
281(12)
11.11.1 Polycarboxylates
289(3)
11.11.2 Other Chemistries
292(1)
11.12 Stability of Chrome-tanned Leather
293(1)
11.13 Role of Sulfate in the Chrome Tanning Mechanism
293(4)
11.14 Role of the Counterion in Chrome Tanning
297(2)
11.15 Role of the Solvent
299(1)
11.16 Role of Ethanolamine
299(2)
11.17 Nature and State of the Substrate
301(1)
11.17.1 Modifying the Substrate
301(1)
11.18 Chromium(vi) and Leather
302(3)
References
305(3)
12 Mineral Tanning 308(28)
12.1 Introduction
308(8)
12.1.1 Blocks and Groups of the Periodic Table
310(6)
12.2 Experimental Tanning Reviews
316(3)
12.3 Aluminium in Leather Making
319(9)
12.3.1 Alum Pickle
321(1)
12.3.2 Suede
322(1)
12.3.3 Furskins
322(1)
12.3.4 Semi-alum Tannage
322(1)
12.3.5 Aluminium Silicate
322(1)
12.3.6 Mixed Complexes with Aluminium
323(1)
12.3.7 Chrome Uptake
323(5)
12.4 Titanium Tanning
328(1)
12.5 Zirconium Tanning
329(2)
12.6 Iron Tanning
331(1)
12.7 Zinc(H)
332(1)
12.8 Mixed Mineral Tannages
332(1)
12.9 Overview
333(1)
References
334(2)
13 Vegetable Tanning 336(39)
13.1 Introduction
336(4)
13.2 Vegetable Tannin Classification
340(11)
13.2.1 Hydrolysable Tannins
340(4)
13.2.2 Condensed Tannins
344(6)
13.2.3 Complex Tannins
350(1)
13.3 General Properties of Vegetable Tannins
351(1)
13.4 Practical Vegetable Tanning
351(1)
13.5 Modern Vegetable Tanning
352(4)
13.5.1 Countercurrent Pit Tanning
354(1)
13.5.2 Rockers
354(1)
13.5.3 Ultrasound
355(1)
13.6 Other Vegetable Tanning Technologies
356(1)
13.7 Combination Tanning
356(9)
13.7.1 Semi-metal Tanning
357(5)
13.7.2 General Properties of Semi-metal Leathers
362(1)
13.7.3 Semi-chrome Tanning
363(2)
13.8 Condensed Tannins and Aldehydic Crosslinkers
365(7)
References
372(3)
14 Other Tannages 375(34)
14.1 Oil Tanning
375(3)
14.2 Sulfonyl Chloride
378(1)
14.3 Syntans
379(9)
14.3.1 Auxiliary Syntans
385(1)
14.3.2 Retans
385(1)
14.3.3 Replacement Syntans
386(1)
14.3.4 Other Syntans
386(2)
14.4 Resins
388(2)
14.5 Aldehydes and Aldehydic Tanning Agents
390(7)
14.5.1 Introduction
390(1)
14.5.2 Formaldehyde
391(2)
14.5.3 Glutaraldehyde
393(2)
14.5.4 Other Aliphatic Aldehydes
395(2)
14.6 Aldehydic Tanning Agents
397(5)
14.6.1 Oxazolidines
397(4)
14.6.2 Phosphonium Salts
401(1)
14.7 Other Tanning Applications
402(1)
14.7.1 Wet White
402(1)
14.8 Miscellaneous Tannages
403(4)
14.8.1 Epoxide Tannage
403(1)
14.8.2 Isocyanate Tannage
404(1)
14.8.3 Aromatic Heterocycles
405(1)
14.8.4 Multifunctional Reagents
406(1)
References
407(2)
15 Post-tanning 409(25)
15.1 Definition
409(1)
15.2 Relationship Between Tanning and Post-tanning
410(2)
15.3 Chrome Retanning
412(1)
15.4 Sequence of Post-tanning Steps
413(1)
15.5 Principles of Post-tanning
414(10)
15.5.1 Mechanisms of Post-tanning
414(4)
15.5.2 Role of the Isoelectric Point
418(4)
15.5.3 Role of the Peptide Link
422(1)
15.5.4 Role of the Sulfonate Group
423(1)
15.6 Coordinating Post-tanning Processes
424(4)
15.6.1 Neutralise and Retan
426(1)
15.6.2 Retan and Dye
426(1)
15.6.3 Retan and Fatliquor
427(1)
15.6.4 Dye and Fatliquor
427(1)
15.6.5 Retan, Dye and Fatliquor
428(1)
15.7 Dynamic Mechanical Thermal Analysis (DMTA)
428(5)
References
433(1)
16 Dyeing 434(28)
16.1 Introduction
434(4)
16.2 Acid Dyes
438(1)
16.3 Basic Dyes
439(1)
16.4 Direct Dyes
440(2)
16.5 Mordant Dyes
442(1)
16.6 Premetallised Dyes
443(3)
16.6.1 1:1 Premetallised Dyes
443(1)
16.6.2 1:2 Premetallised Dyes
444(2)
16.7 Aryl Carbonium Dyes
446(1)
16.8 Reactive Dyes
446(3)
16.9 Sulfur Dyes
449(3)
16.10 Fungal Dyes
452(1)
16.11 Dye Reactivity and Fixation
452(1)
16.12 Role of the Substrate
453(2)
16.12.1 Chrome-tanned Leather
453(1)
16.12.2 Vegetable-tanned Leather
454(1)
16.12.3 Other Tannages
454(1)
16.13 Dyeing Auxiliaries: Levelling and Penetrating Agents
455(3)
16.13.1 Anionic Auxiliaries
455(1)
16.13.2 Auxiliaries that Complex with Dyestuff
456(1)
16.13.3 Auxiliaries that Have Affinity for Both Leather and Dye
457(1)
16.13.4 Intensifying Agents
457(1)
16.13.5 Cationic Tannages
457(1)
16.13.6 Cationic Auxiliaries
457(1)
16.14 Alternative Colouring Methods
458(2)
References
460(2)
17 Fatliquoring 462(35)
17.1 Introduction
462(11)
17.2 Anionic Fatliquors
473(4)
17.2.1 Sulfated Fatliquors
473(3)
17.2.2 Sulfited Fatliquors
476(1)
17.3 Soap Fatliquors
477(1)
17.4 Cationic Fatliquors
478(1)
17.5 Non-ionic Fatliquors
479(1)
17.5.1 Alkyl Ethylene Oxide Condensates
479(1)
17.5.2 Protein Emulsifiers
480(1)
17.6 Multi-charged Fatliquors
480(1)
17.7 Amphoteric Fatliquors
480(1)
17.8 Solvent Fatliquors
480(1)
17.9 Complexing Fatliquors/Water Resistance Treatments
481(1)
17.10 Silicone Fatliquors
482(1)
17.11 'Solid' Fatliquors
482(1)
17.12 Water Resistance
483(13)
17.12.1 Introduction
483(2)
17.12.2 Principles of Conferring Water Resistance
485(7)
17.12.3 Chemistries of Water Resistance Treatments
492(4)
References
496(1)
18 Enzymology 497(26)
18.1 Introduction
497(1)
18.2 Kinetics
497(3)
18.3 Enzyme Structure
500(1)
18.4 Mechanisms
500(8)
18.4.1 Lock and Key
500(1)
18.4.2 Induced Fit
501(1)
18.4.3 Quantum Mechanical Tunnelling
502(3)
18.4.4 Michaelis-Menten
505(3)
18.5 Active Site
508(1)
18.6 Factors Affecting Enzyme Catalysis
509(3)
18.6.1 Temperature
509(1)
18.6.2 pH
510(1)
18.6.3 Inhibition
511(1)
18.7 Enzyme Assays
512(2)
18.7.1 Enzyme Assays for Bating Activity
512(2)
18.8 Enzymology of Leather Making: Current, Potential and Future
514(8)
18.8.1 Enzymes in Soaking
515(1)
18.8.2 Enzymes in Unhairing
516(1)
18.8.3 Enzymes in Liming
517(1)
18.8.4 Enzymes in Deliming
517(1)
18.8.5 Enzymes in Bating
518(1)
18.8.6 Enzymes in Pickling
518(1)
18.8.7 Enzymes in Degreasing
519(1)
18.8.8 Enzymes in Wet Blue Production
519(1)
18.8.9 Enzymes in Other Tanning Processes
520(1)
18.8.10 Enzymes in Post-tanning Processes
520(1)
18.8.11 Enzymes in the Treatment of Untanned Waste
521(1)
18.8.12 Enzymes in the Treatment of Tanned Waste
521(1)
18.8.13 Enzymes in Other Areas of Processing
522(1)
References
522(1)
19 Reagent Delivery 523(15)
19.1 Introduction
523(1)
19.2 Low Float
524(1)
19.3 Zero-float Processing
525(1)
19.4 Non-aqueous Floats
525(10)
19.4.1 Introduction
525(1)
19.4.2 Paraffin Processing
526(2)
19.4.3 Organic Solvents
528(1)
19.4.4 Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
528(1)
19.4.5 Compressed Gases
529(1)
19.4.6 Bead Processing
530(1)
19.4.7 Ionic Liquids
531(2)
19.4.8 Deep Eutectic Solvents
533(2)
19.5 Direct Injection
535(1)
19.6 Overview
536(1)
References
537(1)
20 Drying 538(16)
20.1 Introduction
538(1)
20.2 Viscoelastic Materials
538(2)
20.3 Leather Drying Stages
540(1)
20.4 Role of Temperature with Moisture
541(6)
20.5 Drying in Phases
547(3)
20.6 Leather as a Material
550(2)
20.7 Overview
552(1)
References
553(1)
21 Finishing 554(18)
21.1 Introduction
554(1)
21.2 Polymers for Finishing
555(9)
21.2.1 Urethane
555(2)
21.2.2 Acrylic
557(3)
21.2.3 Nitrocellulose
560(1)
21.2.4 Protein
561(1)
21.2.5 Other Components Including Dyes and Pigments
562(2)
21.3 Adhesion
564(6)
21.3.1 Drying of the Finish
564(2)
21.3.2 Surface Wetting
566(2)
21.3.3 Types of Adhesion
568(2)
21.4 Overview
570(1)
References
570(2)
22 Environmental Impact 572(11)
22.1 Introduction
572(1)
22.2 Waste or Co-products
573(8)
22.2.1 Solid Waste
574(5)
22.2.2 Liquid Waste
579(1)
22.2.3 Gaseous Waste
580(1)
22.3 Overview
581(1)
References
581(2)
23 Theory of Tanning: the Concept of Link-Lock 583(15)
23.1 Introduction
583(4)
23.2 Discussion of the Evidence
587(8)
23.3 Conclusion
595(1)
References
596(2)
24 The Future of Tanning Chemistry 598(29)
24.1 Introduction: the Future of Chrome Tanning
598(1)
24.2 Other Mineral Tanning Options
599(1)
24.3 Non-chrome Tanning for 'Chrome-free' Leather
600(2)
24.4 Single Tanning Options
602(1)
24.5 Tanning Combinations
603(3)
24.6 Leather Properties
606(1)
24.7 Organic Tanning Options
607(3)
24.7.1 Polyphenol Chemistry
607(2)
24.7.2 Polymer and Crosslinker
609(1)
24.8 Natural Tanning Agents
610(8)
24.8.1 Carbohydrates
611(1)
24.8.2 'Bog Body' Chemistry
612(2)
24.8.3 Henna
614(1)
24.8.4 Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid (NDGA)
615(1)
24.8.5 Genepin
615(2)
24.8.6 Oleuropein
617(1)
24.8.7 Other Iridoids
618(1)
24.9 Other Reagents
618(2)
24.10 Compact Tanning
620(1)
24.11 Alternative Technologies
621(2)
24.12 Overview
623(1)
24.13 Conclusions
624(1)
References
625(2)
25 The Future for Leather 627(33)
25.1 Introduction
627(1)
25.2 Progressive Change
628(12)
25.2.1 Development
628(5)
25.2.2 Innovation
633(4)
25.2.3 Revolution
637(3)
25.3 Prediction
640(9)
25.3.1 Processing Conditions
641(1)
25.3.2 Beamhouse
642(3)
25.3.3 Liming
645(1)
25.3.4 Bating
646(2)
25.3.5 Pickling
648(1)
25.4 Tanning/Post-tanning
649(7)
25.4.1 Multiple Reactions
651(2)
25.4.2 Post-tanning
653(1)
25.4.3 Influence of Charge
654(1)
25.4.4 Finishing
655(1)
25.5 Reverse Analysis
656(1)
25.6 Overview
657(1)
25.7 Conclusions
657(1)
References
658(2)
Subject Index 660
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