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El. knyga: Warp Knitted Fabrics Construction

(Hochschule Niederrhein,Monchengladbach, Germany)
  • Formatas: 344 pages
  • Išleidimo metai: 30-Jul-2019
  • Leidėjas: CRC Press Inc
  • Kalba: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498780179
Kitos knygos pagal šią temą:
Warp Knitted Fabrics ConstructionDidesnis paveikslėlis
  • Formatas: 344 pages
  • Išleidimo metai: 30-Jul-2019
  • Leidėjas: CRC Press Inc
  • Kalba: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498780179
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The aim of this book is to provide the background of the warp knitting patterning with a large amount of simulated 3D images of the structures, corresponding to the modern available tools for this. The warp knitted structures can have very complex architectures and very limited understanding exists on how they are built. The pattern book will allow the readers to look at complex pattern with marked separated yarns with different colours to understand how they are bound while searching for relations between the architectures and their properties. It also includes architecture of the warp knitted structures along with technical know-how of production of these structures on machines.

Foreword xiii
Preface xv
Author xix
Symbols xxi
I Fundamentals of warp knitting 1(40)
1 Warp knitting process fundamentals
3(20)
1.1 Introduction
3(1)
1.2 Knitting process and pattern notation
3(5)
1.3 Open and closed loops
8(2)
1.4 Numerical notation issue
10(1)
1.5 Connecting loops in spacer structures
11(1)
1.6 Tempi- 2- and 3-, 4- and 6- tempi lapping movements
11(1)
1.7 Threading
12(2)
1.8 Left and right hand side pattern drive
14(2)
1.9 Guide bar numbering
16(1)
1.10 Fineness
17(1)
1.11 Courses, wales, rack, run-in
17(1)
1.12 Face and back sides of fabric and loop
18(2)
1.13 Single and double face fabrics
20(1)
1.14 Repeats
21(1)
1.15 Conclusions
22(1)
2 Lapping movements and stitch types
23(18)
2.1 Introduction
23(1)
2.2 One tempi laps for laid-in or weft insertion
24(3)
2.3 Laps in the same course - pillar stitch
27(2)
2.4 Balanced laps in two courses
29(4)
2.5 Atlas laps
33(3)
2.6 Atlas laps with back laps
36(1)
2.7 Laps over two needles
37(2)
2.8 Special lapping movements
39(1)
2.9 Conclusions
39(2)
II Loop based single face structures 41(84)
3 Single guide bar fabrics
43(20)
3.1 Introduction
43(1)
3.2 Pillar stitch chains
43(1)
3.3 Tricot stitch fabrics
44(4)
3.4 Cord stitch fabrics
48(3)
3.5 Satin and velvet fabrics
51(3)
3.6 Atlas fabrics
54(2)
3.7 Back lapped atlas with full and partial threading
56(3)
3.8 Fabrics with lapping over two needles
59(2)
3.9 Combined stitches
61(1)
3.10 Conclusions
62(1)
4 Two full threaded guide bars with tricot lapping
63(16)
4.1 Introduction
63(1)
4.2 Plated loops
63(1)
4.3 Positions of the loops and underlaps
64(4)
4.4 Vertical orientation of plated loops
68(2)
4.5 Tricot-tricot combinations
70(3)
4.6 Colour patterning
73(4)
4.7 Conclusions
77(2)
5 Fabrics with full threading
79(24)
5.1 Introduction
79(1)
5.2 Terminological issues
79(1)
5.3 Cord stitch
79(6)
5.4 Cord-Tricot Combinations
85(3)
5.5 Tricot-Cord Combinations
88(2)
5.6 More combinations with laps over one or two courses
90(4)
5.7 Atlas based structures
94(6)
5.8 Tricot atlas sequences
100(1)
5.9 Conclusions
101(2)
6 Two bar fabrics with partial threading
103(22)
6.1 Introduction
103(1)
6.2 Consistency check of loop existence in each wale
104(1)
6.3 Different ways to influence the threading
104(3)
6.4 Simple fillet (mesh) structures
107(12)
6.4.1 Symmetrical structures with half threading 1-in 1-out
107(4)
6.4.2 Symmetrical mesh structures with 2-in 2-out threading
111(2)
6.4.3 Asymmetrical structures
113(6)
6.5 Combined fillet structures
119(4)
6.6 Conclusions
123(2)
III Single face structures with more structural elements 125(102)
7 Laid-in fabrics
127(44)
7.1 Introduction
127(3)
7.2 Terminological issues
130(1)
7.3 Rules for laid-in placement
130(5)
7.3.1 Basic rules
130(2)
7.3.2 Generalized rule for underlap intersection in laid-in fabrics
132(1)
7.3.3 Examples with application of the basic rule
133(1)
7.3.4 Laid-in without underlap
134(1)
7.4 Laid-in as filling
135(2)
7.5 Half-mesh structure - alternating loop and laid-in
137(2)
7.6 Laid-in fabrics as rectangular net
139(15)
7.6.1 Ground structure
139(4)
7.6.2 Lace patterning
143(2)
7.6.3 Lace examples with seventeen and nineteen bars
145(4)
7.6.4 Lace example with triangular effects in the connection areas
149(3)
7.6.5 Edges intensification
152(2)
7.7 Integrating the decorative laid-in yarns in the ground effects
154(6)
7.7.1 Connection of the laid-in yarns as figures only
156(4)
7.8 Octagonal mesh with lock stitches
160(2)
7.8.1 Lace example
160(2)
7.9 Hexagonal meshes
162(7)
7.9.1 Pattern
162(4)
7.9.2 Example structure
166(1)
7.9.3 Elastic ground
167(2)
7.10 Conclusions
169(2)
8 Additional patterning possibilities
171(16)
8.1 Introduction
171(1)
8.2 Fall plate fabrics
171(8)
8.3 Cut presser
179(2)
8.4 Pleating
181(1)
8.5 Electronic beam control
182(3)
8.6 Conclusions
185(2)
9 Jacquard fabrics
187(40)
9.1 Introduction
187(1)
9.2 Jacquard types and machine configurations
188(3)
9.3 Principle of loop based jacquard
191(2)
9.4 Design colours
193(6)
9.5 Fabrics sample
199(5)
9.6 Laid-in based jacquard
204(15)
9.6.1 Laid-in jacquard examples
208(6)
9.6.2 Laid-in jacquard with different ground pattern
214(5)
9.7 Tuck (fall plate) based jacquard
219(1)
9.8 Tuck (fall plate) with jacquard ground
219(3)
9.9 Threading and control of jacquard bars
222(3)
9.10 Conclusions
225(2)
IV Structures from double needle bar machines 227(42)
10 Double needle bar structures - fundamentals and double face structures
229(16)
10.1 Introduction
229(1)
10.2 Machine configuration
229(1)
10.3 Notation of the lapping movement
230(1)
10.4 Design principle of double face fabrics
231(3)
10.5 Loop types
234(2)
10.6 Double face structures with one guide bar
236(8)
10.6.1 Chaining laps
236(2)
10.6.2 Atlas laps
238(4)
10.6.3 Laps for equivalent both sides
242(2)
10.7 Conclusions
244(1)
11 Double face fabrics with multiple guide bars
245(24)
11.1 Introduction
245(1)
11.2 Connection types
245(2)
11.3 Fabrics with two guide bars
247(13)
11.3.1 Symmetric lapping
247(6)
11.3.2 Asymmetric lapping
253(2)
11.3.3 Underlaps connected fabric
255(1)
11.3.4 Mesh structures
255(3)
11.3.5 Laid in double face fabrics
258(2)
11.4 Fabrics with three and more guide bars
260(7)
11.4.1 Spacer fabrics with four or six guide bars and laid-in
260(1)
11.4.2 Spacer mesh fabrics
261(2)
11.4.3 Samples
263(2)
11.4.4 Hollow fabrics
265(2)
11.5 Jacquard
267(2)
V Engineering design 269(30)
12 Calculations
271(12)
12.1 Introduction
271(1)
12.2 Yarn length per loop
271(7)
12.2.1 Length of the loop head
271(3)
12.2.2 Length of the loop arms
274(1)
12.2.3 Underlap length
275(1)
12.2.4 Complete equation
275(1)
12.2.5 Grosberg model
276(1)
12.2.6 Machine State Loop Model of S. Raz
277(1)
12.3 Other structural elements
278(2)
12.3.1 Laid in (Weft) Insertion
278(2)
12.3.2 Loops over two needle
280(1)
12.3.3 Double face and spacer fabrics
280(1)
12.4 Lengths per rack
280(1)
12.5 Fabric weight
280(1)
12.6 Conclusions
281(2)
13 Software for design of warp knitted structures
283(16)
13.1 Introduction
283(1)
13.2 Historical remarks
283(1)
13.3 Machine definition
284(2)
13.4 Yarn definition
286(1)
13.5 Pattern editing
287(5)
13.6 Threading
292(1)
13.7 Pattern update and exports
293(1)
13.8 Take-off and run-in
294(2)
13.9 3D images
296(2)
13.10 Export options of the pattern
298(1)
13.11 Conclusions
298(1)
Bibliography 299(2)
Index 301
Yordan Kyosev holds M.Sc. degree in Technique and Technology of the Textile and Clothing (1996), M.Sc. degree in Applied Mathematics (2002), PhD in Textile machines (2002) (Technical University Sofia, Bulgaria). He habilitated in the area of Textile Technology in Technical University Chemnitz, Germany in 2018. Between 1996 and 2005 he was an assistant professor for Textile Technology at the Technical University Sofia, Bulgaria (design of textile and sewing machines, knitting technology and technical mechanics). After a research stay with Post-Doctoral Fellowship of the Alexander von Humboldt foundation at the Institut for Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University in 2005-2006, he became a Professor of Textile materials, textile technology and quality management (2006) at the Faculty of Textile and Clothing Technology, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Germany. During 2019 he joints Technical University Dresden and take over the chair for assembling technology for textile materials. He developed the 3D module of the first industrial software for 3D visualisation of warp knitted fabrics for ALC Computertechnik (2006-2008). In 2011 he founded the soft-ware company TexMind (www.texmind.com), specialized in the development of algorithms for modelling of textile structures, software "Braider", "Braiding Machine Configurator" and "Warp Knitting Pattern Editor 3D", used for creating of the most Figures in the current book. Prof. Kyosev is an author of numerous publications on modelling of textile structures, braiding and knit-ting technology, fuzzy logic. Since 2018 he is an Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics.
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