Chapter 1 Collagen and Skin Structure |
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1.2 Hierarchy of Collagen Structure |
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1.2.1 Amino Acid Sequence |
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1.5 Quarter Stagger Array |
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1.10 Chemistry of Collagen |
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1.11 Hydrothermal Stability |
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Chapter 2 Skin and its Components |
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2.2 Skin Features and Components |
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2.2.3 Erector Pili Muscle |
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2.3 Non-structural Components of Skin |
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2.3.1 Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) |
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2.3.4 Chondroitin Sulfate A |
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2.3.5 Chondroitin Sulfate C |
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2.4.1 Area of Skin or Leather |
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2.5.2 GrainCorium Thickness Ratio |
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2.6 Variations in Skin Structure due to Species |
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2.6.1 Hereford Cattle and Vertical Fibre |
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Chapter 3 Curing and Preservation of Hides and Skins |
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3.4 Alternative Osmolytes |
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Chapter 4 Soaking |
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4.1 Introduction to Beamhouse Processing |
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4.2.4 Removal of Non-structural Proteins |
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4.2.6 Removal of Hyaluronic Acid |
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4.3 Conditions in Soaking |
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4.4 Components of Soaking Solutions |
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4.5 Role of the Erector Pili Muscle |
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Chapter 5 Unhairing |
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5.2 Keratin and the Structure of Hair |
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5.3.2 Chemical Variations |
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5.6 Variations in Unhairing Technologies |
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5.6.1 Heidemann's Darmstadt Process |
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5.6.2 Oxidative Unhairing |
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5.6.3 Reductive Unhairing |
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5.7.1 Enzyme-assisted Chemical Unhairing |
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5.7.2 Chemical-assisted Enzyme Unhairing |
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5.9 Role of Shaving in Unhairing |
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Chapter 6 Liming |
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6.2.1 Removal of Non-collagenous Components of the Skin |
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6.2.2 Splitting the Fibre Structure at the Level of the Fibril Bundles |
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6.2.4 Hydrolysis of Peptide Bonds |
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6.2.5 Hydrolysis of Amide Sidechains |
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6.2.6 Hydrolysis of Guanidino Sidechains |
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6.2.7 Removal of Dermatan Sulfate |
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6.3.1 Chemical Variations |
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6.3.3 Biochemical Variations |
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Chapter 7 Deliming |
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7.2.6 Alternative Buffers |
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Chapter 8 Bating |
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8.2 Factors Affecting Enzyme Catalysis |
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8.2.3 Concentration: Bate Formulation |
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Chapter 9 Pickling |
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9.2 Processing Conditions |
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9.10 Implications for Chrome Tanning |
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Chapter 10 Tanning |
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10.2 Hydrothermal Stability |
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10.2.1 Shrinkage Temperature (Ts) |
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10.2.3 Differential Scanning Calorimetry |
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10.2.4 Hydrothermal Isometric Tension |
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Chapter 11 Mineral Tanning: Chromium(m) |
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11.2 Preparation of Chrome Tanning Salts |
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11.3 Brief Review of the Development of Chrome Tanning |
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11.4 Chromium(m) Chemistry |
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11.5 Chrome Tanning Reaction |
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11.6.1 Soluble Alkaline Salts |
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11.6.4 Self-basifying Salts |
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11.7 Avoiding Basification |
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11.8 Reactivity at High Basicity |
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11.10 Relative Effects of pH and Temperature |
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11.12 Stability of Chrome Tanned Leather |
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11.13 Role of Sulfate in the Chrome Tanning Mechanism |
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11.14 Role of the Counterion in Chrome Tanning |
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11.15 Role of the Solvent |
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11.16 Zero Float Processing |
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11.18 Role of Ethanolamine |
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11.19 Nature and State of the Substrate |
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11.19.1 Modifying the Substrate |
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Chapter 12 Mineral Tanning |
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12.1.1 Blocks and Groups of the Periodic Table |
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12.2 Experimental Tanning Reviews |
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12.3 Aluminium in Leather Making |
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12.7 Mixed Mineral Tannages |
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Chapter 13 Vegetable Tanning |
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13.2 Vegetable Tannin Classification |
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13.2.1 Hydrolysable Tannins |
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13.3 General Properties of Vegetable Tannins |
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13.4 Practical Vegetable Tanning |
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13.5.1 Counter-current Pit Tanning |
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13.6 Other Vegetable Tanning Technologies |
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13.7.1 Semi-metal Tanning |
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13.7.2 General Properties of Semi-metal Leathers |
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13.7.3 Semi-chrome Tanning |
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13.8 Condensed Tannins and Aldehydic Crosslinkers |
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Chapter 14 Other Tannages |
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14.3.3 Replacement Syntans |
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14.5 Aldehydes and Aldehydic Tanning Agents |
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14.5.4 Other Aliphatic Aldehydes |
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14.6 Aldehydic Tanning Agents |
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14.7 Other Tanning Applications: Wet White |
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14.7.1 Wet White Production |
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14.7.2 Use of Part Processed Materials |
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14.8 Miscellaneous Tannages |
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14.8.2 Isocyanate Tannage |
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14.8.3 Multi-functional Reagents |
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Chapter 15 Post Tanning |
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15.2 Relationship between Tanning and Post Tanning |
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15.4 Sequence of Post Tanning Steps |
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15.5 Principles of Post Tanning |
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15.5.1 Mechanisms of Post Tanning |
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15.5.2 Role of the Isoelectric Point |
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15.5.3 Role of the Peptide Link |
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15.5.4 Role of the Sulfonate Group |
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15.5.5 Coordinating Post Tanning Processes |
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15.6.1 Neutralise and Retan |
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15.6.3 Retan and Fatliquor |
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15.6.5 Retan, Dye and Fatliquor |
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15.7 Role of Processing on Leather Properties: Dynamic Mechanical Thermal Analysis |
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Chapter 16 Dyeing |
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16.6.1 1:1 Premetallised Dyes |
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16.6.2 1:2 Premetallised Dyes |
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16.9 Dye Reactivity and Fixation |
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16.10 Role of the Substrate |
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16.10.1 Chrome Tanned Leather |
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16.10.2 Vegetable Tanned Leather |
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16.11 Dyeing Auxiliaries: Levelling and Penetrating Agents |
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16.11.1 Anionic Auxiliaries |
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16.11.2 Auxiliaries that Complex with Dyestuff |
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16.11.3 Auxiliaries that have Affinity for both Leather and Dye |
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16.11.4 Intensifying Agents |
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16.11.5 Cationic Tannages |
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16.11.6 Cationic Auxiliaries |
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16.12 Alternative Colouring Methods |
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Chapter 17 Fatliquoring |
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17.2.1 Sulfated Fatliquors |
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17.5.1 Alkyl Ethylene Oxide Condensates |
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17.5.2 Protein Emulsifiers |
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17.6 Multi-charged Fatliquors |
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17.7 Amphoteric Fatliquors |
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17.9 Complexing Fatliquors/Water Resistance Treatments |
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17.10.2 Principles of Conferring Water Resistance |
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17.10.3 Chemistries of Water Resistance Treatments |
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17.10.4 Chrome Tanned Leather |
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17.10.5 Non-chrome Tanned Leather |
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Chapter 18 Drying |
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Chapter 19 Theory of Tanning: Concept of Link-Lock |
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Chapter 20 The Future of Leather Processing |
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20.1 Future of Chrome Tanning |
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20.2 Other Mineral Tanning Options |
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20.3 Non-chrome Tanning for 'Chrome Free' Leather |
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20.4 Single Tanning Options |
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20.5 Tanning Combinations |
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20.7 Organic Tanning Options |
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20.7.1 Polyphenol Chemistry |
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20.7.2 Polymer and Crosslinker |
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20.8 Natural Tanning Agents |
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20.8.2 'Bog Body' Chemistry |
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20.8.3 Nor-dihydroguaiaretic Acid (NDGA) |
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20.11 Alternative Technologies |
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Subject Index |
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