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Chapter 1 Collagen and Skin Structure |
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1 | (28) |
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1 | (3) |
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1.2 Hierarchy of Collagen Structure |
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4 | (4) |
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1.2.1 Amino Acid Sequence |
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4 | (2) |
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6 | (1) |
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6 | (2) |
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8 | (2) |
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10 | (4) |
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1.5 Quarter Stagger Array |
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14 | (3) |
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17 | (3) |
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20 | (1) |
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20 | (1) |
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20 | (1) |
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20 | (1) |
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21 | (1) |
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21 | (1) |
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1.10 Chemistry of Collagen |
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21 | (2) |
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1.11 Hydrothermal Stability |
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23 | (6) |
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27 | (2) |
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Chapter 2 Skin and its Components |
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29 | (43) |
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29 | (7) |
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29 | (1) |
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30 | (3) |
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33 | (2) |
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35 | (1) |
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35 | (1) |
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35 | (1) |
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2.2 Skin Features and Components |
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36 | (6) |
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36 | (1) |
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36 | (1) |
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2.2.3 Erector Pili Muscle |
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36 | (1) |
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36 | (1) |
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37 | (1) |
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38 | (4) |
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2.3 Non-structural Components of Skin |
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42 | (6) |
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2.3.1 Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) |
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42 | (1) |
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42 | (2) |
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44 | (1) |
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2.3.4 Chondroitin Sulfate A |
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44 | (1) |
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2.3.5 Chondroitin Sulfate C |
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45 | (1) |
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45 | (3) |
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48 | (6) |
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2.4.1 Area of Skin or Leather |
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51 | (3) |
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54 | (11) |
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54 | (1) |
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2.5.2 Grain--Corium Thickness Ratio |
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55 | (1) |
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56 | (1) |
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56 | (9) |
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2.6 Variations in Skin Structure due to Species |
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65 | (7) |
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2.6.1 Hereford Cattle and Vertical Fibre |
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65 | (2) |
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67 | (1) |
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67 | (2) |
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69 | (3) |
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Chapter 3 Curing and Preservation of Hides and Skins |
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72 | (23) |
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72 | (4) |
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76 | (3) |
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79 | (7) |
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80 | (1) |
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81 | (1) |
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82 | (3) |
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85 | (1) |
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85 | (1) |
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85 | (1) |
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3.4 Alternative Osmolytes |
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86 | (1) |
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87 | (2) |
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89 | (2) |
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89 | (1) |
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90 | (1) |
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90 | (1) |
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90 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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92 | (3) |
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93 | (2) |
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95 | (17) |
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4.1 Introduction to Beamhouse Processing |
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95 | (1) |
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96 | (6) |
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99 | (1) |
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99 | (2) |
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101 | (1) |
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4.2.4 Removal of Non-structural Proteins |
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101 | (1) |
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101 | (1) |
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4.2.6 Removal of Hyaluronic Acid |
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102 | (1) |
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4.3 Conditions in Soaking |
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102 | (2) |
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102 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (1) |
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4.4 Components of Soaking Solutions |
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104 | (5) |
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104 | (1) |
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105 | (1) |
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106 | (1) |
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107 | (2) |
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4.5 Role of the Erector Pili Muscle |
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109 | (3) |
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111 | (1) |
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112 | (22) |
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112 | (1) |
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5.2 Keratin and the Structure of Hair |
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112 | (6) |
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118 | (6) |
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122 | (1) |
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5.3.2 Chemical Variations |
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123 | (1) |
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124 | (1) |
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125 | (1) |
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5.6 Variations in Unhairing Technologies |
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126 | (2) |
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5.6.1 Heidemann's Darmstadt Process |
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126 | (1) |
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5.6.2 Oxidative Unhairing |
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127 | (1) |
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5.6.3 Reductive Unhairing |
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128 | (1) |
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128 | (1) |
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128 | (2) |
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5.7.1 Enzyme-assisted Chemical Unhairing |
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128 | (1) |
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5.7.2 Chemical-assisted Enzyme Unhairing |
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129 | (1) |
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129 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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5.9 Role of Shaving in Unhairing |
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131 | (3) |
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132 | (2) |
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134 | (20) |
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134 | (2) |
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134 | (1) |
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135 | (1) |
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136 | (1) |
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136 | (1) |
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136 | (13) |
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6.2.1 Removal of Non-collagenous Components of the Skin |
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138 | (1) |
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6.2.2 Splitting the Fibre Structure at the Level of the Fibril Bundles |
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139 | (1) |
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139 | (4) |
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6.2.4 Hydrolysis of Peptide Bonds |
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143 | (1) |
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6.2.5 Hydrolysis of Amide Sidechains |
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143 | (5) |
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6.2.6 Hydrolysis of Guanidino Sidechains |
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148 | (1) |
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6.2.7 Removal of Dermatan Sulfate |
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148 | (1) |
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149 | (1) |
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149 | (2) |
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6.3.1 Chemical Variations |
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149 | (1) |
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150 | (1) |
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6.3.3 Biochemical Variations |
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150 | (1) |
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151 | (3) |
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153 | (1) |
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154 | (12) |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (9) |
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156 | (1) |
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156 | (1) |
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157 | (1) |
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157 | (1) |
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158 | (1) |
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7.2.6 Alternative Buffers |
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159 | (1) |
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160 | (1) |
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161 | (3) |
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164 | (1) |
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165 | (1) |
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165 | (1) |
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166 | (11) |
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166 | (3) |
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8.2 Factors Affecting Enzyme Catalysis |
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169 | (4) |
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169 | (1) |
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170 | (1) |
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8.2.3 Concentration: Bate Formulation |
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171 | (1) |
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172 | (1) |
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172 | (1) |
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173 | (1) |
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174 | (3) |
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176 | (1) |
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177 | (18) |
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177 | (2) |
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9.2 Processing Conditions |
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179 | (5) |
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179 | (1) |
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179 | (5) |
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184 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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186 | (1) |
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186 | (2) |
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188 | (2) |
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190 | (2) |
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192 | (1) |
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9.10 Implications for Chrome Tanning |
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193 | (2) |
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194 | (1) |
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195 | (9) |
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195 | (1) |
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10.2 Hydrothermal Stability |
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196 | (8) |
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10.2.1 Shrinkage Temperature (Ts) |
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198 | (1) |
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199 | (1) |
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10.2.3 Differential Scanning Calorimetry |
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200 | (1) |
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10.2.4 Hydrothermal Isometric Tension |
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201 | (1) |
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202 | (2) |
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Chapter 11 Mineral Tanning: Chromium(III) |
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204 | (55) |
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204 | (1) |
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11.2 Preparation of Chrome Tanning Salts |
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205 | (3) |
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11.3 Brief Review of the Development of Chrome Tanning |
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208 | (1) |
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11.4 Chromium(III) Chemistry |
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209 | (4) |
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11.5 Chrome Tanning Reaction |
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213 | (8) |
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221 | (7) |
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11.6.1 Soluble Alkaline Salts |
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223 | (1) |
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224 | (1) |
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225 | (1) |
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11.6.4 Self-basifying Salts |
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225 | (3) |
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11.7 Avoiding Basification |
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228 | (1) |
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11.8 Reactivity at High Basicity |
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228 | (2) |
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230 | (1) |
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11.10 Relative Effects of pH and Temperature |
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231 | (6) |
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237 | (9) |
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243 | (3) |
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11.12 Stability of Chrome Tanned Leather |
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246 | (1) |
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11.13 Role of Sulfate in the Chrome Tanning Mechanism |
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247 | (3) |
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11.14 Role of the Counterion in Chrome Tanning |
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250 | (2) |
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11.15 Role of the Solvent |
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252 | (1) |
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11.16 Zero Float Processing |
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252 | (1) |
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253 | (2) |
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11.18 Role of Ethanolamine |
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255 | (1) |
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11.19 Nature and State of the Substrate |
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255 | (4) |
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11.19.1 Modifying the Substrate |
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255 | (1) |
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256 | (3) |
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Chapter 12 Mineral Tanning |
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259 | (22) |
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259 | (6) |
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12.1.1 Blocks and Groups of the Periodic Table |
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260 | (5) |
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12.2 Experimental Tanning Reviews |
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265 | (2) |
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12.3 Aluminium in Leather Making |
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267 | (7) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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270 | (1) |
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270 | (4) |
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274 | (1) |
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275 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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12.7 Mixed Mineral Tannages |
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277 | (1) |
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278 | (3) |
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278 | (3) |
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Chapter 13 Vegetable Tanning |
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281 | (34) |
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281 | (3) |
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13.2 Vegetable Tannin Classification |
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284 | (9) |
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13.2.1 Hydrolysable Tannins |
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284 | (4) |
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288 | (5) |
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293 | (1) |
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13.3 General Properties of Vegetable Tannins |
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293 | (1) |
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13.4 Practical Vegetable Tanning |
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294 | (1) |
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295 | (1) |
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13.5.1 Counter-current Pit Tanning |
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295 | (1) |
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13.6 Other Vegetable Tanning Technologies |
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296 | (1) |
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296 | (7) |
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13.7.1 Semi-metal Tanning |
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296 | (4) |
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13.7.2 General Properties of Semi-metal Leathers |
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300 | (1) |
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13.7.3 Semi-chrome Tanning |
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301 | (2) |
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13.8 Condensed Tannins and Aldehydic Crosslinkers |
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303 | (7) |
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310 | (3) |
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313 | (2) |
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313 | (2) |
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Chapter 14 Other Tannages |
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315 | (33) |
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315 | (2) |
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317 | (1) |
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318 | (8) |
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323 | (1) |
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324 | (1) |
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14.3.3 Replacement Syntans |
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324 | (1) |
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324 | (2) |
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326 | (2) |
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14.5 Aldehydes and Aldehydic Tanning Agents |
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328 | (6) |
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328 | (1) |
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329 | (2) |
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331 | (1) |
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14.5.4 Other Aliphatic Aldehydes |
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332 | (2) |
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14.6 Aldehydic Tanning Agents |
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334 | (4) |
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334 | (3) |
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337 | (1) |
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14.7 Other Tanning Applications: Wet White |
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338 | (4) |
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14.7.1 Wet White Production |
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339 | (3) |
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14.7.2 Use of Part Processed Materials |
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342 | (1) |
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14.8 Miscellaneous Tannages |
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342 | (6) |
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342 | (1) |
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14.8.2 Isocyanate Tannage |
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343 | (2) |
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14.8.3 Multi-functional Reagents |
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345 | (1) |
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345 | (3) |
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348 | (22) |
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348 | (1) |
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15.2 Relationship between Tanning and Post Tanning |
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349 | (2) |
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351 | (1) |
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15.4 Sequence of Post Tanning Steps |
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352 | (1) |
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15.5 Principles of Post Tanning |
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353 | (9) |
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15.5.1 Mechanisms of Post Tanning |
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353 | (3) |
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15.5.2 Role of the Isoelectric Point |
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356 | (3) |
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15.5.3 Role of the Peptide Link |
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359 | (1) |
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15.5.4 Role of the Sulfonate Group |
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359 | (1) |
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15.5.5 Coordinating Post Tanning Processes |
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360 | (2) |
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362 | (2) |
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15.6.1 Neutralise and Retan |
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362 | (1) |
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362 | (1) |
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15.6.3 Retan and Fatliquor |
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363 | (1) |
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363 | (1) |
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15.6.5 Retan, Dye and Fatliquor |
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363 | (1) |
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15.7 Role of Processing on Leather Properties: Dynamic Mechanical Thermal Analysis |
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364 | (6) |
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368 | (2) |
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370 | (22) |
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370 | (3) |
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373 | (1) |
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373 | (1) |
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374 | (1) |
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375 | (2) |
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377 | (2) |
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16.6.1 1:1 Premetallised Dyes |
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377 | (1) |
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16.6.2 1:2 Premetallised Dyes |
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378 | (1) |
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379 | (3) |
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382 | (1) |
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16.9 Dye Reactivity and Fixation |
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383 | (1) |
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16.10 Role of the Substrate |
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384 | (1) |
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16.10.1 Chrome Tanned Leather |
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384 | (1) |
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16.10.2 Vegetable Tanned Leather |
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385 | (1) |
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385 | (1) |
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16.11 Dyeing Auxiliaries: Levelling and Penetrating Agents |
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385 | (4) |
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16.11.1 Anionic Auxiliaries |
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385 | (2) |
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16.11.2 Auxiliaries that Complex with Dyestuff |
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387 | (1) |
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16.11.3 Auxiliaries that have Affinity for both Leather and Dye |
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387 | (1) |
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16.11.4 Intensifying Agents |
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387 | (1) |
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16.11.5 Cationic Tannages |
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388 | (1) |
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16.11.6 Cationic Auxiliaries |
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388 | (1) |
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16.12 Alternative Colouring Methods |
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389 | (3) |
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391 | (1) |
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392 | (29) |
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392 | (9) |
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401 | (4) |
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17.2.1 Sulfated Fatliquors |
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401 | (3) |
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404 | (1) |
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405 | (1) |
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405 | (1) |
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406 | (1) |
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17.5.1 Alkyl Ethylene Oxide Condensates |
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406 | (1) |
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17.5.2 Protein Emulsifiers |
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407 | (1) |
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17.6 Multi-charged Fatliquors |
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407 | (1) |
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17.7 Amphoteric Fatliquors |
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407 | (1) |
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407 | (1) |
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17.9 Complexing Fatliquors/Water Resistance Treatments |
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408 | (1) |
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409 | (12) |
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409 | (2) |
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17.10.2 Principles of Conferring Water Resistance |
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411 | (5) |
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17.10.3 Chemistries of Water Resistance Treatments |
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416 | (1) |
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17.10.4 Chrome Tanned Leather |
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417 | (2) |
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17.10.5 Non-chrome Tanned Leather |
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419 | (1) |
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420 | (1) |
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421 | (11) |
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427 | (3) |
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430 | (2) |
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430 | (2) |
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Chapter 19 Theory of Tanning: Concept of Link-Lock |
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432 | (12) |
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432 | (3) |
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435 | (6) |
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441 | (3) |
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441 | (3) |
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Chapter 20 The Future of Leather Processing |
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444 | (23) |
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20.1 Future of Chrome Tanning |
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444 | (1) |
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20.2 Other Mineral Tanning Options |
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445 | (1) |
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20.3 Non-chrome Tanning for `Chrome Free' Leather |
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446 | (1) |
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20.4 Single Tanning Options |
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447 | (1) |
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20.5 Tanning Combinations |
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448 | (2) |
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450 | (1) |
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20.7 Organic Tanning Options |
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451 | (3) |
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20.7.1 Polyphenol Chemistry |
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451 | (2) |
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20.7.2 Polymer and Crosslinker |
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453 | (1) |
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20.8 Natural Tanning Agents |
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454 | (7) |
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454 | (1) |
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20.8.2 `Bog Body' Chemistry |
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455 | (1) |
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20.8.3 Nor-dihydroguaiaretic Acid (NDGA) |
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456 | (3) |
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459 | (1) |
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459 | (2) |
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461 | (1) |
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462 | (1) |
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20.11 Alternative Technologies |
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462 | (2) |
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464 | (1) |
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464 | (3) |
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465 | (2) |
Subject Index |
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467 | |