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Umami: Unlocking the Secrets of the Fifth Taste [Kietas viršelis]

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Translated by , , Illustrated by ,
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In the West, we have identified only four basic tastes-sour, sweet, salty, and bitter-that, through skillful combination and technique, create delicious foods. Yet in many parts of East Asia over the past century, an additional flavor has entered the culinary lexicon: umami, a fifth taste impression that is savory, complex, and wholly distinct. Combining culinary history with recent research into the chemistry, preparation, nutrition, and culture of food, Mouritsen and StyrbA|k encapsulate what we know to date about the concept of umami, from ancient times to today. Umami can be found in soup stocks, meat dishes, air-dried ham, shellfish, aged cheeses, mushrooms, and ripe tomatoes, and it can enhance other taste substances to produce a transformative gustatory experience. Researchers have also discovered which substances in foodstuffs bring out umami, a breakthrough that allows any casual cook to prepare delicious and more nutritious meals with less fat, salt, and sugar. The implications of harnessing umami are both sensuous and social, enabling us to become more intimate with the subtleties of human taste while making better food choices for ourselves and our families. This volume, the product of an ongoing collaboration between a chef and a scientist, won the Danish national Mad+Medier-Prisen (Food and Media Award) in the category of academic food communication.

Recenzijos

The book is written in a very engaging manner, easily moving between vignettes of the latest science and mouth-watering menus and photographs. -- Gordon Shepherd, Yale University, author of Neurogastronomy Mouritsen and StyrbA|k demystify and explain in layman's terms the science of umami, including many Japanese elements that have not been explained in English before in this all-encompassing book. Along with Mouritsen's other publications Sushi and Seaweeds, Umami will be referred to time and time again. -- Yukari Sakamoto, author of Food Sake Tokyo A remarkably comprehensive account of umami taste and one in which the science is not only accurate but accessible and interesting. -- John Prescott, author of Taste Matters: Why We Like the Foods We Do In his earlier books Sushi and Seaweeds, Ole Mouritsen wove together biological, chemical, and gastronomical perspectives into rich portraits of these intriguing foods. In Umami, writing with the chef Klavs StyrbA|k, he does the same for this much celebrated yet enigmatic 'new' taste. Umami is a wide-ranging and welcome progress report on our understanding of taste and deliciousness. -- Harold McGee, author of On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen This book will be your go-to umami resource. The content is cleverly layered with molecular-level explanations of how we taste alongside rich cultural perspective and beautiful recipes. With its stunning graphics, this book is eye candy. -- Amy Rowat, founder of Science & Food Biophysicist Ole Mouritsen... seamlessly meshes science and gastronomy... Nature This book, representing the fruits of a longstanding collaboration between the scientist Ole G. Mouritsen and the Danish chef Klavs Styrbaek, is richly illustrated and packed with umami-rich recipes to try at home. It should be required reading for those catering for the airlines, since umami is one of the only tatste that holds up well in the air. Times Literary Supplement An engaging read... Umami is at once a scientific treatise, cultural history, unique collection of recipes, and handsome coffee-table--or for that matter, kitchen-table--book. -- Sandra J. Ackerman American Scientist

Daugiau informacijos

Winner of Best Translation Cookbook for the United States 2015.In the West, we have identified four basic tastes-sour, sweet, salty, and bitter-that, through skillful combination and technique, create delicious foods. Yet in many parts of East Asia over the past century, a fifth taste-umami-has entered the culinary lexicon. Umami is savory, complex, and wholly distinct. Combining culinary history with research into the chemistry, preparation, nutrition, and culture of food, this book encapsulates what we know to date about the concept of umami which, when harnessed, enables us to become more intimate with the subtleties of human taste and make better food choices for ourselves and our families. In the West, we have identified four basic tastes-sour, sweet, salty, and bitter-that, through skillful combination and technique, create delicious foods. Yet in many parts of East Asia over the past century, a fifth taste-umami-has entered the culinary lexicon. Umami is savory, complex, and wholly distinct. Combining culinary history with research into the chemistry, preparation, nutrition, and culture of food, this book encapsulates what we know to date about the concept of umami, which when harnessed enables us to become more intimate with the subtleties of human taste and to make better food choices for ourselves and our families. The product of an ongoing collaboration between a chef and a scientist, this book has won the Danish national Mad+Medier-Prisen (Food and Media Award) for academic food communication and the Gourmand World Cookbook Award for Best Translation Cookbook for the United States.
Acknowledgments ix
Prologue: How It All Began xiii
What Exactly Is Taste, And Why Is It Important?
1(14)
The basic tastes: From seven to four to five and possibly many more
1(3)
Why do we need to be able to taste our food?
4(1)
There is more to it: Sensory science, taste, smell, aroma, flavor, mouthfeel, texture, and chemesthesis
5(2)
Is there a taste map of the tongue?
7(1)
Why are some foods more palatable than others?
8(1)
A few words about proteins, amino acids, nucleotides, nucleic acids, and enzymes
9(2)
Glutamic acid, glutamate, and the glutamate ion
11(1)
Glutamic acid and glutamate in our food
12(1)
How does glutamate taste, and how little is required for us to taste it?
13(2)
The First Four: Sour, Sweet, Salty, And Bitter
15(8)
The physiology and biochemistry of taste
15(1)
The interplay between sweet and bitter
16(1)
Taste receptors: This is how they work
17(3)
When words fail us: Descriptions of tastes
20(3)
The Fifth Taste: What Is Umami?
23(18)
Science, soup, and the search for the fifth taste
23(1)
Glutamic acid and glutamate
24(2)
What is the meaning of the word umami?
26(1)
From laboratory to mass production
27(1)
How MSG is made
28(4)
A little letter with a huge impact: The `Chinese restaurant syndrome'
32(2)
The Japanese discover other umami substances
34(1)
It all starts with mother's milk
35(1)
Umami as a global presence
36(2)
Umami has won acceptance as a distinct taste
38(1)
And umami is still controversial ...
39(2)
1 + 1 = 8: Gustatory Synergy
41(24)
Amazing interplay. Basal and synergistic umami
41(1)
Detecting umami synergy on the tongue and in the brain
42(1)
Japanese dashi: The textbook example of umami synergy
43(2)
The art of making Japanese dashi
45(2)
Nordic dashi
47(1)
Dashi closer to home---a Japanese soup with a Scandinavian twist
48(4)
Seaweeds enhance the umami in fish
52(1)
How to make smoked shrimp heads
53(1)
Many substances interact synergistically with umami
54(1)
A breakthrough discovery of yet another synergistic substance
54(1)
The interplay between glutamate and the four classic tastes
55(1)
A simple taste test: Umami vs. salt
56(1)
Umami-rich `foie gras from the sea'
57(3)
Food pairing and umami
60(1)
Creating tastes synthetically
60(2)
Umami: Either as little or as much as you like
62(3)
Umami From The Oceans: Seaweeds, Fish, And Shellfish
65(40)
Seaweeds and konbu: The mother lode of umami
65(1)
A world of konbu in Japan
66(3)
Fresh fish and shellfish
69(1)
Cooked fish and shellfish dishes and soups
69(3)
Umami and the art of killing a fish
72(2)
A traditional clambake: New England method, Danish ingredients
74(5)
Everyday umami in ancient Greece and Rome
79(2)
Fish sauces and fish pastes
81(4)
Modern garum
85(2)
Shellfish paste
87(1)
Oyster sauce
87(1)
Sushi and fermented fish
88(2)
Katsuobushi
90(1)
Catching katsuo to optimize umami
91(1)
Niboshi
91(1)
The hardest foodstuff in the world
92(4)
Kusaya
96(1)
Nordic variations: Horrible smells and heavenly tastes
96(2)
Fish roe
98(2)
Seven friends, The Compleat Angler, and a pike
100(5)
Umami From The Land: Fungi And Plants
105(32)
Umami from the plant kingdom
105(5)
Dried fungi
110(1)
Fermented soybeans
111(1)
Soy sauce
112(1)
Production of shoyu
113(1)
Miso
114(1)
Production of miso
114(4)
The Asian answer to cheese: Fermented soybean cakes
118(2)
Natto
120(2)
Black garlic
122(1)
Shojin ryori: An old tradition with a modern presence
122(2)
The enlightened kitchen
124(2)
Tomatoes
126(8)
Green tea
134(3)
Umami From Land Animals: Meat, Eggs, And Dairy Products
137(18)
The animal kingdom delivers umami in spades
137(3)
Homo sapiens is a cook
140(2)
Preserving meats in the traditional ways
142(1)
Air-dried hams
143(1)
Salted beef: Pastrami and corned beef
144(1)
Bacon and sausages
145(1)
Dairy products
146(1)
Blue cheeses
146(2)
Aged, dried, and hard cheeses
148(3)
Eggs and mayonnaise
151(1)
Harry's creme from Harry's Bar
151(4)
Umami: The Secret Behind The Humble Soup Stock
155(12)
Soup is umami
155(3)
Osmazome and The Physiology of Taste
158(2)
Amino acids in soup stocks
160(1)
A real find: A dashi bar
160(2)
The taste of a beef stock
162(2)
Ready-made umami
164(1)
Knorr and Maggi: European umami pioneers
165(2)
Making The Most Of Umami
167(40)
MSG as a food additive
167(1)
Other commercial sources of umami
168(1)
Hydrolyzed protein
169(1)
Umami in a jar
170(2)
Yeast extract
172(1)
Nutritional yeast
172(1)
More sources of umami for vegans
173(1)
Ketchup
174(1)
Bagna cauda
175(1)
Worcestershire sauce
176(1)
Umami in a tube
177(1)
Twelve easy ways to add umami
178(2)
Quintessentially Danish: Brown gravy, medisterpølse, and beef patties
180(2)
Slow cooking: The secret of more umami
182(8)
Ratatouille and brandade
190(1)
This is why fast food tastes so good
191(3)
Green salads and raw vegetables
194(2)
Umami in dishes made with small fowl
196(1)
Cooked potatoes: Nothing could be simpler
197(1)
Rice and sake
197(3)
Beer
200(2)
Umami in sweets
202(1)
Mirin is a sweet rice wine with umami
203(4)
Umami And Wellness
207(6)
Umami and MSG: Food without `chemicals'
207(2)
Umami satisfies the appetite
209(1)
Why does umami make us feel full? The `brain' in the stomach
209(1)
Umami for a sick and aging population
210(1)
Umami for life
211(2)
EPILOGUE: UMAMI HAS COME TO STAY
213(20)
Technical And Scientific Details
217(16)
Umami and the first glutamate receptor
217(1)
Yet another receptor for umami
218(2)
Umami synergy
220(2)
The taste of amino acids
222(1)
Taste thresholds for umami
223(1)
Content of glutamate and 5'-ribonucleotides in different foods
223(10)
Bibliography 233(4)
Illustration Credits 237(2)
Glossary 239(16)
Index 255(9)
The People Behind The Book 264
Ole G. Mouritsen is a distinguished scientist and professor of biophysics at the University of Southern Denmark. His books include Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body, and the Soul and Seaweeds: Edible, Available, and Sustainable. Klavs StyrbA|k is a chef who, for more than twenty years, has owned and run the highly regarded Restaurant KvA|gtorvet (The Cattle Market) in Odense, Denmark. He is a passionate advocate for the renewal of classical Danish cuisine. Mariela Johansen has Danish roots, lives in Canada, and holds an MA in humanities. Jonas Drotner Mouritsen is a graphic designer and owns the design company Chromascope (www.chromascope.com). His movie projects have won several international awards.